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I have not been to the top of MauxS for years and hoped for latest updates. Wanted to spend 1st and 2nd July up top. Is the hut open these days? Is the Sentinel Car Park hut open as well? Going up alone, do they allow that these days? Also, has anyone scambled to the Inner Tower from the Escarpment, curious if that is doable or dangerous? Many thanks,

thomas

Welcome to the forum Thomas.

Yes the car park is still operational and they do allow people up alone (last Thursday a solo Spanish hiker was rescued from the area). The hut on top is open to whoever wants to use it, and is still functional shelter, but it tends to have a lot of litter, inside and outside, and is not always the most cheerful place to sleep. Dig around on the forum for thread on the state of mountain huts - more detail there.

About Inner Tower, I've had two unsuccessful attempts at it from the escarpment, which seems comical given its grade, but its Berg climbing and the grade isn't always totally helpful in assessing a route. I had two different climbing partners on those occasions, and both were totally put off by the grassy pitch right at the start, and then the traverse on the narrow grassy ledge leading to the South East Arete and around the corner to the gully forming the Standard Route. The exposure on this grassy ledge is serious - I would not want to do it unroped and without placing gear. Even the grassy block leading to the ledge - I was kicking footholds into bits of soil and hanging on grass. Getting to the neck between Inner Tower and the escarpment is not too bad. Does involve some minor down-climbing and a traverse across a bit of unstable soil. I'll definitely go back and do it, all 3 summits and also the SE Arete which seems like a fun route, but with gear and with the right people. If you are asking me I wouldn't attempt it solo, but of course its all possible.

Thank you kindly for the useful advice. If appreciations were money you just earned your salary for the day. I will go up alone but wont need rescuing! I presumed on a weekend there would be people up there as well, especially during July break. Hope for snow.

The Inner Tower sounds more daunting than I imagined so will give it a miss. One could leave a fixed rope and abseil down (dont know the length of the downclimb)?

thomas wrote:
My approach would be standard, 2x50m trad ropes. I'd do the grassy ledge between the grassy block and the SE Arete as a pitch (the grassy block being the first, short pitch), placing maybe 3 pieces of protection, even though it is a scramble/walk and not technical climbing - just that it is pretty narrow with considerable exposure. The same would have to be done around the corner, where there is another ledge of sorts leading to the base of the gully forming the standard route. You would have to abseil back down this gully, and do the same kind of traverse back along the ledges to the block. I have down-climbed the block, but there is actually an abseil station on it, which is easier and safer.

It is difficult getting the perspective on this climb, since most of it is not easily visible. You get an idea from the Singati Wall, but from far away.