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I'm planning on attempting the Bell Traverse for the first time, the hotel-bell-twins direction. I also want to climb cathedral peak - apparently the original route has been washed away somewhat and a different approach is needed.

Few questions:
1) Can anyone give an indication of the Traverse's current condition?
2) Does anyone know how to currently approach Cathedral Peak?
3) We'll probably have a late start (11h - 13h) from the hotel.
3.1) Are there any decent camping spots between Sherman's Cave and Bugger Gulley?
3.2) Can Bell Cave be reached within half a day?
3.3) Would 3.1 (if it exists) or 3.2 be a better base camp to approach the peak?
4) Does anyone know of recent security issues in the area?

Speaking of which, it's been a while since the last security incident (2007 I think?), or the news flies under the radar.

Cheers!
Gollum

gollum wrote:
[quote]

1) Can anyone give an indication of the Traverse's current condition?
no - last there 2 years ago, but the traverse doesn't change much in my experience.


2) Does anyone know how to currently approach Cathedral Peak?
I think its from the base of the peak (no longer from very near the top of BG) - i.e. once you reach the point near the top of BG where there is a shelf on the left to overlook the Mhlambonja Valley and just 80 or so metres up the final gully next to the gendarme to go. From the shelf, head towards Mnweni and pick up the scramble onto Cathedral which goes through the rock bands.
The old route (breaking right in the final gully with the Gendarme on the left) has been eroded away. The surface of the slope has lowered 1.5m or so in the last 20 years - faster than you'd tink.


3) We'll probably have a late start (11h - 13h) from the hotel.
I'd say you'd make Bell Cave OK if you're bags aren't too heavy. Latest I've left the hotel is about 3:30 - though with light 12 kilo bags and not carrying water. Its a nice route with recovery time available on the flatter stretches e.g. after Orange Peel. Just keep going, no matter how slowly!

3.1) Are there any decent camping spots between Sherman's Cave and Bugger Gulley?
you could make do somewhere at the top of Orange Peel gap, but best for individuals in bivvy bags. Else at the top of BG, near where the chopper lands on the clearing overlooking the Mnweni side. We've also slept out on the shelf overlooking the Cathedral Valley.

3.2) Can Bell Cave be reached within half a day?
yes - 3.5-4 hrs if fit & without rests.

3.3) Would 3.1 (if it exists) or 3.2 be a better base camp to approach the peak?
marginal difference really. From Bell Cave its 15 minutes back into the gendarme gully, then steeply up this and over - say 40 minutes and you'll be onto the CP scramble.


4) Does anyone know of recent security issues in the area?
not heard anything. Spent a night out on my own a year back & Bell Cave was looking very disused.

1) Can anyone give an indication of the Traverse's current condition?
Am doing it again hopefully in April, will post update if you don't do it before me. As mnt_tiska mentioned, I don't anticipate any major changes either, but there may be one or two new places where rain has washed away the trail.

2) Does anyone know how to currently approach Cathedral Peak?
I think its from the base of the peak (no longer from very near the top of BG) - i.e. once you reach the point near the top of BG where there is a shelf on the left to overlook the Mhlambonja Valley and just 80 or so metres up the final gully next to the gendarme to go. From the shelf, head towards Mnweni and pick up the scramble onto Cathedral which goes through the rock bands.Sounds right. My guess is that the section that is apparently washed away is the bit that is parallel to BG, slightly lower than the altitude of the gendarme - it always was a bit eroded and slippery there. Hopefully you will be able to find an alternate route, albeit a bit zig-zaggy, starting further away from BG, closer to the Mweni side. gollum, please take pictures of the washed away section!

To add my own 2 cents worth, starting the hike that late, yes, you could still make Bell Cave, but the grassy plateau where the chopper lands makes for a good camp site, with accessible water (coming down from BG), and its right at the base where the climb starts, so if its late in the day, stop there. There are some small spots for tents beyond Orange Peel Gap, going towards BG, if you really get up there late, but water may be further away.

4) Does anyone know of recent security issues in the area?Nothing in very recent times. Read this thread though:
www.vertical-endeavour.com/forums/2-drak.../581-twins-cave.html

Speaking of which, it's been a while since the last security incident (2007 I think?), or the news flies under the radar.Amphitheatre is an ongoing problem, but rarely makes the news. Not aware of anything else, but yes, it could be under the radar.

I climbed Cathedral about two months ago and we went up Bugger Guly and used the shelf with no problems - I am not sure why this option is considered a problem these days - the hotel tours use the longer and more direct route up the lower slopes - longer and more work.

Thanks for all the input!

Where is this plateau where the chopper lands?

@intrepid: OK, I'll snap the suspected section. You're not perhaps doing the traverse on Easter weekend?

The following is from the MCSA RD for the Cathedral Peak Standard Route:
"Apparently a recent, severe wash-away in Bugger Gully has made the approach described above quite tricky. An alternative approach is to start about 150 m below the top of the gully at a flat, grassy section situated just before the last, loose slope up to the top of the gully. Walk out along the grass ledge to the right and then take the line of least resistance up a series of slabs and rock bands until you locate the path described above. On either approach, some of the scrambling is fairly exposed and a head for heights is required. If you are in any doubt it may be wise to hire one of the local guides from the hotel or from the KZN Wildlife offices."

Is route finding a problem on Cathedral Peak?

gollum wrote:

Where is this plateau where the chopper lands?


Description for clarity rather than to be followed - as you'll see.
1) Find your way *all the way* to the top of BG - the Gendarme will be on the south side, CP on the north side and you'll be looking down towards the Bell and the Horns one way and down BG the other.

2) Descend back the way you came, until you are out of the v.steep & narrow gully between the Gendarme and CP (80m or so). Look towards Mnweni side with your eye following the contour that you are on, i.e. along the base of CP, and you'll see flatter ground. Last time I was there, a log or maybe even a bench was on the ground with some vege free surface nearby. This is probably the best spot to camp up.



Is route finding a problem on Cathedral Peak?
its a question of weaving round the steeper bits of rock outcrops in the first 1/3 of the ascent - thereafter the route is clear. Going up is easier than coming down because you'll be able to see the steeper bits more easily from below. It might help to have someone down below to talk to you.