The Pine Tree Project

The following article was recently published on page 2 of the spring edition of the Champagne News magazine (Smurf and tonymarshall in the photo):



I am pleased that our efforts have sparked some interest. It is also very good to see Papa Dragon and co taking initiative on their own to tackle some pines. This project is beyond the scope of just our little official VE Berg trips - it belongs to all, just as the Berg belongs to all.

andrew r wrote: I'm sure intrepid has posted full details somewhere.

Actually the details are fragmented, some being on this thread, others being on the VE trip reports. We still need to put together a proper document. The protocols would be:
1. Consult and pet permission from the relevant KZN Wildlife Officer in Charge (Conservation Manager).
2. Not a rule, but be encouraged to get input and discuss your plans on this forum.
3. Use only handtools such as pangas and bowsaws, unless EKZNW has given permission for other methods.
4. Make sure the treatment is done properly (see below).
5. Take photos and GPS readings (failing which, pinpoint the locations on the hiking map).
6. Report back to EKZNW after the trip.
7. Again not a rule, but give feedback on this forum too and let us have the GPS data so we can keep our own database updated.
8. Do some follow up to the sites 2-5 years after and be prepared to tackle more saplings and trees that have not died from ringbarking.


Treatment guide:
1. Determine if the tree can be cut down, or if it should be ring-barked. The smaller ones are obvious to determine. A 70cm bowsaw (a standard on our trips) can be used to determine the method by holding up the saw against the tree trunk. If the tree trunk is well within the width of the saw it can be cut down fairly easily. The closer the tree trunk width gets to the width of the saw, the harder it will be. Tree trunks the same width or wider should normally be ring-barked.

2. Regardless of the method, cut branches down around the base of the trunk using a bow saw to make space to work (or a panga if thats all you have). If you are intending to ring-bark be generous in how many branches you clear so that the ring-barked area is exposed to the sun, elements and fire as much as possible.

3. If cutting down the tree, saw about 3/4 of the way through, make sure everyone is clear and then push and rock the tree so that it snaps and falls. Cut through the remainder of the trunk to sever it totally. The stump should still be ring-barked as a fail-safe measure, and make extra sure that any branches and growth-shoots remaining on the trunk are properly treated.

4. If ring-barking, remove 70-100cm of bark from the base of the tree where it emerges from the soil. Use the length of a 70cm bowsaw as a guide to check how much to take off. Make sure you strip the bark right down to the yellow-white hard, woody layers, taking care to remove all brownish/pinkish layers. Make sure any branches in the ring-barked zone are also properly treated and that all growth-shoots are removed.

5. If you notice many younger trees around an adult tree, make sure you fine-comb the area for tiny little saplings too which can be as small as about 2cm and remove these too.

Chemical treatment is warranted depending on the need. For bramble and wattle it is actually necessary for successful treatment. The bramble problem is very serious as it is spreading very rapidly and some fear that the battle has already been lost in the Berg. The pines are actually the more pleasant aliens to work with - easy to spot, fun to watch falling over, smells nice when you cut them, and, not having to handle poison can actually be seen as a positive thing. Poison has to be handled in a proper manner too in order to avoid environmental contamination.

We have had some peripheral discussions about the use of chemicals and chainsaws in the treatment of pines. Our recommendation has been to use both, especially in cases where the infestation is very dense and where there are proper pines forests such as can be found at Hlatikhulu. It would be a better use of labour resources and it would speed up the eradication rate, considering for example that drilling two or three holes into a tree with a battery powered drill and injecting small amounts of poison would go a lot faster than ring-barking and be far less tiring. Theoretically the poison can break down over time since the tree will remain standing for many years even when it is dead. This is being considered, but necessary channels and consultations have to be done first. This is why I mentioned in the treatment method above "Use only handtools such as pangas and bowsaws, unless EKZNW has given permission for other methods".