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People often ask, “I’d love to see Everest, what is the quickest trip way to get to the Base Camp?” Well, one can literally drive to the northern Base Camp on the Tibet side, but lets have a look at the very popular Nepal side, since that’s what most people have in mind when they ask that question. What is the least amount of time needed to get up there? What’s involved? Are you fit enough to make it?

First up, it’s really much more than just about Everest. The mountain is not even visible most of the time. And not many go to the actual “base camp” either; the aim is more to get up Kalla Patthar to see Everest close hand. The trip is also about experiencing a culture - the way of life for the Sherpa people who had the good fortune of settling near a very big mountain that would one day make them famous. Beyond the legends, commercialism and even exaggeration of this land and its people, there is something there that will stir the receptive heart, depositing a memory that extends much deeper than a photo of you with Everest in the background.

Time and itineraries are not respected by these jagged, snow-clad fortresses. They follow a different rhythm. They don’t keep appointments. So the question of how quickly it can be done very often reflects a mind-set which does land people in trouble. The “I’ve come a long way, only have a certain amount of time and simply have to make it” thinking can compromise common sense and adequate acclimatisation. But we are all susceptible to this kind of thinking, myself included, and all live in a real world, with real time constraints. Let’s have a look at what a safe and short itinerary would look like.

An express trek to Everest Base Camp begins with the memorable flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, which is spectacularly perched on the steep slopes of the Dudh Kosi valley. This is quite a change in altitude, from 1400m to just over 2800m - don’t be surprised at how quickly you get out of breath walking up a flight of stairs. But most flights are in the morning anyway, and you should descend to Phakding, at 2610m, the same day.

The following day is generally a short one, so take your time. There is a 1000m altitude change from Phakding to Namche Bazaar, which is very big in an altitude range where serious related problems can already be provoked. Yep, some people do not make it further than Namche Bazaar – but this need not be you! After the suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi River, the steep and sustained climb to Namche begins. Take it very, very easy on this hill, especially if you are feeling fit and strong (sounds like a contradiction, doesn’t it?). By rushing to the top your body may react to the altitude, sometimes immediately, but typically by evening or during the night – and this even if you still feel alright when you reach the top. If you didn’t see Everest during the flight in on the previous day, you’ll get your first glimpse on the way up. If the clouds are not covering it, the summit tip will be sticking out above the Nuptse ridge. Take time to savour the moment.

The golden rule for trekking in the Everest area is: spend at least 2 nights at Namche Bazaar. Do not break this rule, even if you feel fine! There is a lot to do during the acclimatisation day in between. Day walks to one of the nearby villages lying at roughly 3800m is highly recommended and almost compulsory, provided you feel fine. Khumjung and Khunde are perfect for the less energetic, whereas a walk to Thame and back provides an all day outing.

Namche Bazaar is a fascinating place to hang out at too. A strategic meeting place for trading between Nepal and Tibet to this day, you’ll be entertained by Sherpas, Rais, Tibetans and other people groups interacting with each other, and with you. Market days are especially vibrant. A horse-shoe shape perched on steep slopes overshadowed by the 6000m Kwangde Ri range, it is probably the most luxurious place on the Everest trail, so enjoy it while it lasts.

Only move on to Tengboche if you are feeling fine. If you are suffering from any altitude related symptoms such headaches, nausea etc. they will only get worse if you continue – do not be fooled! Mild tiredness, shortage of breath when climbing stairs, and waking up in the middle of the night are generally considered normal and are nothing to worry about if that is all you have. The golden rule is not too continue if you have mild symptoms and to descend if the symptoms do not improve or worsen.

Tengboche is well known for its monastery, an important icon in the religious heritage of the Sherpas. The summit tip of Everest sticking out above the Nuptse Ridge will also visible from there. The location is spectacular and should be enjoyed from one of the bakeries and coffee shops.

Pheriche is a critical place in the acclimatisation process, but many an itinerary would only include one night there, carrying on to Lobuje the following day. This is a very rapid pace over a relatively big change in altitude at a critical time for an unacclimatised person – and is not recommended, even for an express trek. In fact, research shows that around 50% of people spending only one night in Pheriche before trekking to Lobuje suffer from some degree of AMS-related symptoms. The clinic situated there will be able to provide sound advice concerning this and offer medical care should it be needed.

Either spend 2 nights at Pheriche before proceeding to Lobuje, or spend a night at Thokla in between. Though the lodges there are not as numerous and attractive as elsewhere, at 4620m the height at Thokla does make for a more even altitude gain, which is within the recommended 300m per day. Acclimatising in this area provides a perfect opportunity for a side trip to Dingboche and Chukkung, where are the final lodges on the way to Island Peak and the Amphulabtsha La Pass are situated.

Do not skimp on a spare day in your itinerary! If you are not feeling totally well in this area do not proceed to Lobuje! If you have to temporarily descend from Lobuje to alleviate symptoms your itinerary will not allow you to make it to Kalla Patthar! Your spare day can also be used elsewhere anywhere along the remaining route – there is much else to see and enjoy. Or can try to get earlier flight out from Lukla but don’t bank on that, especially in peak season or during bad weather.

Lobuje is not the most attractive lodge-village on the route and can be a bit of a grim place, especially if you arrive late in the day and the better lodges are already full. So at least ensure that you are well acclimatised and feeling fine before you get there, as the experience of feeling sick there will not be pleasant and the altitude of 4910m is certainly not one which is conducive to providing relief!

From Lobuje it’s finally the big day you’ve been waiting for. Arrange for most of your belongings to be safely stored at your lodge, set out early in the morning and stop for breakfast at Gorak Shep. From there, the climb up Kalla Patthar begins, culminating in the famous view of Everest, Lothse and Nuptse that you’ve been dreaming about for months! Take warm clothing with and some snacks and spend as much time as possible on the summit. Savour every minute.

On the express route to Everest there is generally no time or energy for visiting both Kalla Patthar and the actual Everest Base Camp. Most people do not visit the Base Camp. The route from Gorak Shep is not well maintained and can be non-existent if no expeditions are busy attempting Everest. The movement of the glacier changes the trail constantly and the general area where most of the camps are established can be hard to find, even by the trekking guides. In the off-season there is not much see other than the glacier and some helicopter wreckages, bearing in mind too that Everest is not visible at all from there.

From Kalla Patthar, return to Gorak Shep for lunch and then back to Lobuje. Time permitting, continue on to Thokla or Pheriche, which is possible provided you are feeling strong and start the day early. This will make the following day easier, which involves returning to Namche (yes this is very long, but remember that this is an express visit). The day thereafter will see you back to Lukla, where you should confirm your flight for the following day that afternoon still.

Now what about that spare day, provided you acclimatised smoothly?

If you are feeling strong and would like to do both the Base Camp and Kalla Patthar, then you would need to overnight at Gorak Shep, which is a very high altitude to sleep at and should not be considered if you are suffering from any altitude-related symptoms. You could proceed first to Base Camp from Lobuje and spend the remainder of the day resting at Gorak Shep, and climb Kalla Patthar the following morning. Alternatively you could ascend Kalla Patthar first and then proceed to Base Camp, returning to Gorak Shep the same day - but this is a very long day indeed.

The extra day could also be spent at Chukkung, a remote, quieter place surrounded by shear Himalaya. Returning from Base Camp to Lobuje, Chukkung can be reached via the Kongma La Pass if you have strength, or simply trek up the valley via Dingboche.

Tengboche can be an interesting place and may be worth the extra time. But if are enchanted by the vibe in this extra-ordinary valley then you are likely to have no difficulties in finding something to take up the extra time, even if just enjoying a more relaxed pace back to Lukla.

Bear in mind that flights to and from Lukla can be suspended for up to several days at a time if the weather is not favourable, so leave enough room between your return to Kathmandu and your flight back home.

Are you fit enough to do this express visit? For the popular treks in Nepal proper acclimatisation counts far more than fitness. The terrain on the express route is not as difficult as one might imagine. However even a gentle uphill on an easy trail can be a big challenge at high altitudes. An average hiking fitness is sufficient, bearing in mind that the longer and harder days are more in the second half of the trek -  the first half being shorter, easier days for the acclimatisation. This will help to get your body stronger. Be prepared for long, full days of walking on the return leg, especially if you have used your spare day already.

Obviously there is much more that the Khumbu has to offer, including the Gokyo valley, Cho La Pass and Renjo Pass. But if this is all you have time for then the highlights on this quick trip are enough to stay with you for a lifetime.

Itinerary summary of the express trek to Everest:

Day 1: fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2840m), trek to Phakding (2610m)
Day 2: trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m)
Day 3: acclimatisation day in Namche Bazaar, day walks to Khumjung (3780m), Khunde (3840m) or Thame (3820m)
Day 4: trek to Tengboche (3820m)
Day 5: trek to Pheriche (4240m)
Day 6: acclimatisation day at Pheriche or short trek to Thokla (4620m), day walks to Dingboche (4410m) or Chukkung (4730m)
Day 7: spare day for extra acclimatisation, or for an extra night at Gorak Shep (5140m), or for a more relaxed return to Lukla
Day 8: trek to Lobuje (4910m)
Day 9: early morning walk to Gorak Shep for breakfast, walk up Kalla Patthar (5550m), return to Lobuje and descend to Thokla or Pheriche
Day 10: trek back to Namche Bazaar
Day 11: trek back to Lukla
Day 12: fly back to Kathmandu

Vertical Endeavour provides professional advice in helping you plan a trek to Everest and can arrange the trek for you according to your needs.