Angus-Leppan
21 Jul 2011 12:58 #3358
by RobD
@Gollum: Thanks for the info. I see you used quite a lot of small gear by Berg standards. Thinking of trying the Angus-Leppan some time soon.
Replied by RobD on topic Re:Angus-Leppan
gollum wrote: \m/ WHOOOO HOOOOO ! ! ! \m/
Some hints and info for those of you awaiting awesomeness:
- Route finding is extremely easy (but we had good weather).
- The rock quality is dubious throughout the climb and rotten on pitches 2 and 3.
- 1 out of 3 placements are bomber, don't fall!
- The belay stations at the start of pitches 3 and 4 are bolted
- The "good peg" in the cubbyhole on pitch 6 is no longer there, but there is a good cam placement.
- Our rack was 1 set of nuts (BD #4 - #13), one set of hexes (BD #1 - #11), and 4 cams (BD Camalot #0.75 - #3), and it was more than sufficient, although we could have used more and smaller cams.
@Gollum: Thanks for the info. I see you used quite a lot of small gear by Berg standards. Thinking of trying the Angus-Leppan some time soon.
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20 Feb 2012 07:37 #53076
by Stijn
Replied by Stijn on topic Re:Angus-Leppan
Oh wow... I had forgotten about that statement. Sad that it came true 
On bolting in the Berg, reading Encounters with the Dragon recently, I see that Mr Peckham himself placed bolts on the Icidi Pencil to protect the crux of the 4th pitch. This is why the gray area of "fair means" doesn't really work for me. Whose fair means? Either you ban bolts from the Berg entirely, or they will start popping up everywhere - somebody will always find a justification.
Whether it be protecting a belay station on Angus Leppan to make a guide's job safer, deciding that a pitch is "unsafe" enough to justify bolts, or constructing an entire via ferrata to open the vertical world to the "masses", there will always be a justification.
And yes, I am a sport climber, but I have accepted that I would need to learn the trad game and grow a pair if I would like to summit some of the berg classics. If you can't climb something in the Berg wihout bolts, leave it for someone who can.
On bolting in the Berg, reading Encounters with the Dragon recently, I see that Mr Peckham himself placed bolts on the Icidi Pencil to protect the crux of the 4th pitch. This is why the gray area of "fair means" doesn't really work for me. Whose fair means? Either you ban bolts from the Berg entirely, or they will start popping up everywhere - somebody will always find a justification.
Whether it be protecting a belay station on Angus Leppan to make a guide's job safer, deciding that a pitch is "unsafe" enough to justify bolts, or constructing an entire via ferrata to open the vertical world to the "masses", there will always be a justification.
And yes, I am a sport climber, but I have accepted that I would need to learn the trad game and grow a pair if I would like to summit some of the berg classics. If you can't climb something in the Berg wihout bolts, leave it for someone who can.
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