Via Ferrata route in the Berg

14 Jan 2012 17:18 #5281 by Skapie
I do believe the VF can inhance the mountain experience to many people on a section of rock face that is otherwise unutilized. There are no trad lines due to the poor quality of the rock.
It does not spoil any scenic routes.
True, it was done without permission. But done professionally.
It is a very thin line between getting permission and justifying it afterwards rather. It is not easy to bolt anything in the Berg.
But, as examples ...
The bolts up Cathedral peak help leaders take inexperieced groups up the summit.
The pitton near Roland's Cave provide "safety" along the ledge for people uncomfortable at height...
In the end, I am glad those were there. Same with the VF.

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14 Jan 2012 17:53 #5282 by Skapie
I will simply ask the mountaineers and climbing community to consider the following:
- Why they did not ask permission to put up the VF ?
- Why did they place it specifically there ?
- where their intentions to make money ?
- Was it done to a very high standard ?
- What did it cost the guys to do it ?

I don't like to see the guys getting crucified by the climbing community, without understanding the reasons behind the project.
If you have considered all sides, then throw your stones as you see fit.
This thing seems to be getting bigger. Different MCSA sections, different Rescue sections, mountain guides, different Mountain Areas and Park's Board, etc etc ... and each have a different feeling to it.

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20 Jan 2012 11:35 #52933 by intrepid
@Skapie: I don't like the unpleasantries and crucifying which has arisen around this issue either. It is not a good situation.

On the other hand this should been considered beforehand. I think it unwise to undertake something like this in the Berg without proper consideration and consultation.

Whatever the motives where, they are now clouded by the permission issue. Whether or not a via ferrata belongs in a wilderness area, and how well via ferratas are accepted by various schools of thought, are smaller issues in comparison. They can be worked through and tolerated if the approach is correct. The end does not justify the means in this case. Quite possible the incident has ruined chances of this ever being done legally in the future, as already pointed out earlier.

It would set a risky precedent in the Drakensberg if this is left unchecked.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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01 Feb 2012 11:54 #52981 by intrepid
The MCSA's official response post on the main MCSA site: cen.mcsa.org.za/home/via-ferrata

The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) notes with concern that a Via Ferrata Route has been constructed in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site apparently without the management authorities of this protected area having been consulted or made aware. (Ezemvelo press release refers)

The Mountain Club was not aware of this activity until it had been completed and it shares the concern of Ezemvelo that the construction of this route could be in conflict with National Environmental Management and Nature Conservation legislation and that it might have a negative ecological impact.

The Mountain Club further notes, still with concern, that a press release by Ezemvelo makes mention of a joint Fixed Protection Policy between the MCSA and Ezemvelo and that the construction of this Via Ferrata appears to be in conflict with that agreement which was drawn up with conventional climbing in mind. Via Ferratas are somewhat different from protection fitted for conventional rock climbing, but authorisation should still have been obtained from Ezemvelo before its construction even by persons who are not aware of this agreement..

The mention of this joint agreement confirms a long standing policy in the Mountain Club which recognises that there are clear ownership rights in South Africa, even in undeveloped mountain terrain, and that prior consultation is required between those who wish to access and to use such land and its owners. Such prior consultation and respect for property is always expected of MCSA members, whether they are on private land or in a protected area. In all such consultation the Mountain Club has actively promoted the protection and conservation of mountain wilderness areas and of activities which have as low an impact on the environment as possible.

Ezemvelo may rest assured that internal investigations are under way within the Mountain Club, beginning with those Sections closely involved in the area, to determine how this Via Ferrata came to be constructed and for what purpose.

It may be useful to record that the Aims and Objects of the Mountain Club of South Africa, inter alia, include the following:

1. Procure and Protect Real Rights in and Access to Mountains and Mountain Areas

and

2. Initiate and Support Actions towards Protecting the Natural Beauty and Wilderness Character of Mountains and to Promote their Effective Conservation Management.

Dave Jones - National President MCSA


Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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08 Feb 2012 19:41 - 09 Feb 2012 05:26 #53025 by caveman
hey mr dave jones and the MCSA. thanks for posting the MCS official response as of 1/2/12. i did the route for the 2nd time on 4/2/12 with my 4 year old son. you can view a photo and a short comment here:

www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7964&p=42686#p42686

and now i'd like to respond to the "aims and objectives of the MCSA" point (2) Initiate and Support Actions towards Protecting the Natural Beauty and Wilderness Character of Mountains and to Promote their Effective Conservation Management. i believe that the VF does exactly this. both times i have done the route, there have been 25 people or so doing it that day. by 2pm there's no trace there was a single person there. the types of people who have done the VF are "take only photos and leave only footprint" types - wilderness lovers. i even saw someone picking up some cigarette butts on the contour path below the sentinel. i would like to suggest that the MCSA apply for a period of temporary permission - say 6 months to see what happens. if there are some unnerving incidents - rescues or litter or human waste issues or something that damages the spirit of wilderness, then we can re-evaluate. but my guess is that the impact and traffic will be no more or less than the chain ladder route, which is by definition, a less extreme/exposed via ferrata itself. not all via ferratas are wrong, otherwise the chain ladders would have been removed. they are not bolted climbing routes (therefore do not contravene the no bolting policy) - they are extreme hiking routes, and if understood, add value to the preservation of our beautiful mountains.

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Last edit: 09 Feb 2012 05:26 by intrepid. Reason: embedded image

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08 Feb 2012 19:46 #53026 by caveman
try it because it may not be a crime. murder is wrong by definition, you don't need to try it. VFs are still being defined ... by discussing (which is why we are doing it).

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08 Feb 2012 21:03 #53027 by tiska
If someone put a cableway up the amphitheatre one night there would also be a queue of people wanting to have a go and many reporting it to be enjoyable - some of whom would in all probabability be nice people too. But that wouldn't legitimise a cableway which was built in secrecy and without consultation and against the regs.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Stijn, kliktrak

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09 Feb 2012 08:10 #53028 by kliktrak

caveman wrote: by 2pm there's no trace there was a single person there. the types of people who have done the VF are "take only photos and leave only footprint" types - wilderness lovers. i even saw someone picking up some cigarette butts on the contour path below the sentinel.


Um there are metal bolts and a steel cable on the side of the mountain...not quite part of nature...pretty much a permanent "trace" that humans were involved in altering the natural landscape...

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09 Feb 2012 12:09 #53031 by caveman
don't get carried away - a cable car and a VF are not the same thing. in a bicycle event anyone who arrives with a motorbike is disqualified. in a discussion about VF, comments about cable cars don't count. i support the VF - only this VF, not any VF. if someone put one up on the column or the western injasuthi triplet i would do whatever i could to have it removed. same with cable cars in the berg.

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09 Feb 2012 12:23 #53032 by caveman
there is no "absolute wilderness" on earth. there's even human footprints and metal junk on the moon, which i don't agree with. but i agree with this via ferrata, because, although it alters the natural landscape, this may increase the chances of our wilderness surviving. it allows people who are not climbers to peep into the vertical world. if they fall in love with what they see, the importance of preserving this vertical world and the understanding of how fragile wilderness areas are will grow. rock climbing is kinda obscure in the greater scheme of things. golfers will never understand why the golf course at cathedral peak hurts my eyes when i look down at it from cleft peak. maybe we should take golfers on the VF. just saying to be lite ... i am not anti golf or golfers, but i am pro wilderness. have you done it yet, mr kliktrak? i can hear your biners going klik on the trak (being lite again) - love your posts - thanks.

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