Sentinel Standard Route

08 Dec 2009 22:07 #778 by intrepid
Replied by intrepid on topic Re:Sentinel Standard Route
Thanks for posting back Gollum, nice pics. Sorry you didn't make it, but I guess thats Berg climbing for you. I have yet to complete my own attempt too after being washed off the route by rain a while back. Don't have any info on Wilrico Ras.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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22 Jan 2010 15:28 #911 by no4stopper
About Wilriko Ras
Wilriko Ras was climbing the 1st pitch of the standard route when he pulled off a large slab of rock. He fell about 3 or 4 metres to the bottom of the pitch with the slab, and sustained serious injuries to his spine.

He was rescued by the MCSA KZN rescue team with an aircraft from SAAF 15 squadron, and flown to Greys Hospital. He died about two weeks later after surgery to try to remove bone fragments from the fracture.

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25 Jan 2010 10:29 #914 by gollum
Replied by gollum on topic Re:Sentinel Standard Route
I'm sorry to hear about that. Did you know him?

Do you know whether they climbed with a rope when the accident happened?

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14 Aug 2012 12:55 - 21 Aug 2019 16:29 #54959 by ghaznavid
*useless post* mods please delete
Last edit: 21 Aug 2019 16:29 by ghaznavid.

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16 May 2013 17:20 - 21 Aug 2019 16:30 #56938 by ghaznavid
Some questions on the route, assistance would be greatly appreciated :thumbsup:
- How experienced in lead climbing should one be before leading this route? Would leading up to grade 12 on trad be adequate to compensate for the difficulty added by the Berg rock etc?
- Is there a path to the start and up the stretch between the 2 pitches?
- Does anyone have a GPS track by any chance?
- Any specific pro needed for the route (e.g. micro stoppers)? I have Black Diamond Nuts 3-13 and Black Diamond Hexes size 6-10
Last edit: 21 Aug 2019 16:30 by ghaznavid.

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16 May 2013 22:10 - 17 May 2013 08:02 #56942 by tiska
Replied by tiska on topic Sentinel Standard Route
Sentinel standard is a good beginners route. Pitch 1 is about D grade and some 12-15m long. I don't remember getting much gear out but it is certainly not exposed or too scary.

The top pitch, which is at the top rock band after walking diagnoannly up the grassy, bushy slopes is grade C. Its a bit more exposed than the bottom pitch but easy enough. Remember this route was opened more than 100 years ago.

There is a nice chimney variation to the top pitch (McLeod's variation) which is nicer climbing than either of the 2 pitches on the standard route. If it is dry, then I would have thought it is hard to fall off any of these pitches.
Last edit: 17 May 2013 08:02 by tiska.
The following user(s) said Thank You: ghaznavid

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17 May 2013 05:23 #56944 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Sentinel Standard Route
Thanks for the info :thumbsup:

How well protected is that chimney vs the normal scramble?

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17 May 2013 08:05 - 17 May 2013 09:06 #56948 by tiska
Replied by tiska on topic Sentinel Standard Route
McLeod's variation (the chimney alternative to the exposed summit C scramble) is more conventional climbing than either of the other 2 pitches on the standard route. Its a chimney that you tuck into and use stem moves off each wall to get up. It feels secure and the rock quality is OK. To be honest we went up without ropes on that pitch so were not looking for gear but I'm sure you can get stuff out if you want. The C scramble on the standard route is over before you realise you've done it. That's what happened to us, so we went down and did McLeod's variation as well.

Maybe do the standard route and then put a top rope down McLeod's?
Last edit: 17 May 2013 09:06 by tiska.

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17 May 2013 11:11 #56951 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Sentinel Standard Route
Did some stem move practice on a door frame at home, its harder than it looks :laugh: Although I hope the rock isn't as smooth and unfeatured as a door frame...

Thanks for the advice. If the route is only 1 hour from path to summit, then I can look at doing both in a day. Although I'll probably spend an hour leaning on the cairn eating lunch and enjoying the view - my favourite thing to do in the Berg...

I'm considering doing it this winter, but I am worried about how snow/ice would make the route tough/dangerous.

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17 May 2013 13:16 - 17 May 2013 13:20 #56955 by intrepid
Replied by intrepid on topic Sentinel Standard Route
If you have massive cams and hexes you can place plenty deep in the crack that the chimney narrows into on McLeods Variation...but these isn't really practical, I certainly didn’t have much that went in initially. I vaguely remember about 4, maybe 5 placements. The first placement was close to the bottom - a BD #1 cam. You'd probably still hit the ground but it would spare you the inconvenience of rolling down the grass slope (with broken ankles). Thereafter I think I got a nut in behind a flake - not very solid...this was well into the stemming bit already. The only placement that I remember feeling really good was the long cord I slung around the big chockstone at the top, but by this time the climb is almost done. It's not a scary chimney though...pretty fun. There is a grass-piton type peg among the rocks about 2m or so from the top of the pitch to build a stance with, but use at least one other anchor too.

There is a GPS data file available in the downloads section.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Last edit: 17 May 2013 13:20 by intrepid. Reason: typo
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