Hiking and Mountaineering in New Zealand
28 Jan 2018 14:01 - 28 Jan 2018 14:21 #72713
by Stijn
Hiking and Mountaineering in New Zealand was created by Stijn
I spent 5 weeks in New Zealand during November & December last year, mostly solo, and the idea was to spend as much time off the beaten track as possible. There are plenty of incredible (and very popular) hiking trails on the South Island, but I was hoping to explore more of the wilderness there - take my tent and lose myself in those vast mountain ranges, with just a kindle for company...
I'll add a post below for each section of the trip, with text from my logbook (no need to retype all of that) and a selection of my favourite pics. If anyone is keen to head out there, I'm very happy to help out with some advice from my experience
I'll add a post below for each section of the trip, with text from my logbook (no need to retype all of that) and a selection of my favourite pics. If anyone is keen to head out there, I'm very happy to help out with some advice from my experience
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28 Jan 2018 14:32 #72714
by Stijn
Replied by Stijn on topic Hiking and Mountaineering in New Zealand
Mount Aspiring
Thursday Nov 16, 2017
Hiking 4:44:28 / 16.0 km (3.4 kph) +1276m
The big walk-in to Mt Aspiring! Convinced Craig that the helicopter option was a cop-out (and hugely expensive). Turns out we were the only party of about 10 groups we saw that walked in and out without using the chopper.
Gorgeous hike anyway, up the Matukituki Valley to French Ridge Hut, with a steep, rooty 900m climb at the end.
www.movescount.com/moves/move186926352
Friday Nov 17, 2017
Mountaineering 3:27:30 / 7.9 km (2.3 kph) +656m
We were planning on taking the Quarterdeck Glacier to access the main Bonar Glacier and Colin Todd Hut but a guide at French Ridge told us that the avalanche risk on the shorter Breakaway Glacier had eased off so we took that instead.
Cloudy morning but luckily no rain so snow conditions remained firm enough. Took a slight detour to scope out the access to The Ramp route which we'd be doing in the dark the next day. Thought we'd have the hut to ourselves when we arrived but 6 more people arrived via helicopter that afternoon.
Spectacular setting!
www.movescount.com/moves/move186926387
Saturday Nov 18, 2017
Mountaineering 9:50:00 / 7.0 km (0.7 kph) +1269m
Perfect clear, starry night when we woke up, which was exactly what we needed for an adequate refreeze of the snow, especially on the crux 400m 50deg snow face called The Ramp. We set off at 3:30am pretty close to a guide with his client, which was pretty useful in making sure we found the correct start of the route.
Some trepidation at the start of the ramp when the guided pair took out 2 axes each and proceeded to front-point their way up the face. We only had one axe each and with it being pretty pointless being tied together on a steep face (no protection so both would fall if one person slipped), we put the rope away and soloed up the face.
The next 2 hours were pretty terrifying for me as only the points of my crampons and half my axe was digging into the extremely icy snow. Full focus the entire time as one slip would result in a quick slide and plummet over the cliffs below. Really exhausting on the calves and toes as well.
Much relief when we got to the top and then it was an easy 500m vert trudge up the less steep NW Ridge to the summit. Amazing views, much jubilation, but now to get down. We didn't want to downclimb the ramp in the same way so were considering the other more rocky route, but the guide we bumped into recommended that Craig lowers me full rope lengths down the ramp, I hammer in a snow stake and then belay while Craig downclimbs with both our ice axes. So that’s what we did! 8 pitches of it, for 4 hours, constantly wondering whether these snow stakes would hold a 120m slide by Craig anyway... I also dropped a glove at one point, which disappeared over the edge but had a spare pair in my pack anyway.
Much relief when we crossed the final crevasse at the bottom if the ramp and then it was just a slow trudge through soft snow back to the hut.
Such an epic day!
www.movescount.com/moves/move186926368
Sunday Nov 19, 2017
Mountaineering 8:04:10 / 24.8 km (3.1 kph) +513m
Looong hike back down, reversing days 1 & 2. Close to 2000m of descent. With celebratory beers and burgers back in Wanaka on our minds all the way down
www.movescount.com/moves/move186926328
Thursday Nov 16, 2017
Hiking 4:44:28 / 16.0 km (3.4 kph) +1276m
The big walk-in to Mt Aspiring! Convinced Craig that the helicopter option was a cop-out (and hugely expensive). Turns out we were the only party of about 10 groups we saw that walked in and out without using the chopper.
Gorgeous hike anyway, up the Matukituki Valley to French Ridge Hut, with a steep, rooty 900m climb at the end.
www.movescount.com/moves/move186926352
Friday Nov 17, 2017
Mountaineering 3:27:30 / 7.9 km (2.3 kph) +656m
We were planning on taking the Quarterdeck Glacier to access the main Bonar Glacier and Colin Todd Hut but a guide at French Ridge told us that the avalanche risk on the shorter Breakaway Glacier had eased off so we took that instead.
Cloudy morning but luckily no rain so snow conditions remained firm enough. Took a slight detour to scope out the access to The Ramp route which we'd be doing in the dark the next day. Thought we'd have the hut to ourselves when we arrived but 6 more people arrived via helicopter that afternoon.
Spectacular setting!
www.movescount.com/moves/move186926387
Saturday Nov 18, 2017
Mountaineering 9:50:00 / 7.0 km (0.7 kph) +1269m
Perfect clear, starry night when we woke up, which was exactly what we needed for an adequate refreeze of the snow, especially on the crux 400m 50deg snow face called The Ramp. We set off at 3:30am pretty close to a guide with his client, which was pretty useful in making sure we found the correct start of the route.
Some trepidation at the start of the ramp when the guided pair took out 2 axes each and proceeded to front-point their way up the face. We only had one axe each and with it being pretty pointless being tied together on a steep face (no protection so both would fall if one person slipped), we put the rope away and soloed up the face.
The next 2 hours were pretty terrifying for me as only the points of my crampons and half my axe was digging into the extremely icy snow. Full focus the entire time as one slip would result in a quick slide and plummet over the cliffs below. Really exhausting on the calves and toes as well.
Much relief when we got to the top and then it was an easy 500m vert trudge up the less steep NW Ridge to the summit. Amazing views, much jubilation, but now to get down. We didn't want to downclimb the ramp in the same way so were considering the other more rocky route, but the guide we bumped into recommended that Craig lowers me full rope lengths down the ramp, I hammer in a snow stake and then belay while Craig downclimbs with both our ice axes. So that’s what we did! 8 pitches of it, for 4 hours, constantly wondering whether these snow stakes would hold a 120m slide by Craig anyway... I also dropped a glove at one point, which disappeared over the edge but had a spare pair in my pack anyway.
Much relief when we crossed the final crevasse at the bottom if the ramp and then it was just a slow trudge through soft snow back to the hut.
Such an epic day!
www.movescount.com/moves/move186926368
Sunday Nov 19, 2017
Mountaineering 8:04:10 / 24.8 km (3.1 kph) +513m
Looong hike back down, reversing days 1 & 2. Close to 2000m of descent. With celebratory beers and burgers back in Wanaka on our minds all the way down
www.movescount.com/moves/move186926328
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28 Jan 2018 14:39 #72715
by Stijn
Replied by Stijn on topic Hiking and Mountaineering in New Zealand
Motutapu Track
Tuesday Nov 21, 2017
Trail Running 9:07:22 / 48.2 km (11:21 / km) +2978m
Moving from Wanaka to Queenstown, so while Craig took the car around and did some MTB, I ran there instead via the Motutapu Track. Beautiful singletrack but man those hills took it out of me - 2800m ascent in the first 27km!! Lucky all gradual downhill from there, including a few km of easy kloofing
www.movescount.com/moves/move187343142
Tuesday Nov 21, 2017
Trail Running 9:07:22 / 48.2 km (11:21 / km) +2978m
Moving from Wanaka to Queenstown, so while Craig took the car around and did some MTB, I ran there instead via the Motutapu Track. Beautiful singletrack but man those hills took it out of me - 2800m ascent in the first 27km!! Lucky all gradual downhill from there, including a few km of easy kloofing
www.movescount.com/moves/move187343142
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28 Jan 2018 15:04 - 28 Jan 2018 15:09 #72718
by Stijn
Replied by Stijn on topic Hiking and Mountaineering in New Zealand
Dusky Track
Monday Nov 27, 2017
Hiking 4:06:48 / 11.0 km (2.7 kph) +348m
Dusky Track Day 1. Beautiful hour-long boat ride to the end of Lake Hauroko where we were dumped and instantly surrounded by swarms of sandflies! Good thing is that as long as you're walking, they can't keep up (lazy buggers). I was planning to double-up straight away and go up to Lake Roe hut but had to eat humble pie as soon as I tried to push the pace on the "track". Very rooty, big sections of knee-deep mud and lots of tree-fall which was frustrating to smash through/over.
So very frustrating at first until I just embraced the fact that 2km/h was my max pace, took it easy and forgot the idea of doubling up. This day was entirely in the forest, following the Hauroko river with a strong feeling of heading deeper into the backcountry.
I had expected to be solo, but was sharing the hut with 3 others. We would all walk at our own paces during the day though. Unfortunately the hut was a little sandfly-infested so we had to cover ourselves from head to toe (in the heat) to keep the bloodsuckers at bay until nightfall when they thankfully went to sleep!
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646705
Tuesday Nov 28, 2017
Hiking 3:30:43 / 7.5 km (2.1 kph) +648m
Dusky day 2. Much better going today - more in my element. One 20min detour when I lost the path and started following a trap line set of ribbons. Heavy going eventually convinced me something was wrong so I turned back. Climbed out of the tree line to a beautiful plateau, dotted with lakes. Looking very Scottish. Reached the hut just after 11am so decided to do some exploring...
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646519
Hiking 3:09:54 / 7.7 km (2.4 kph) +840m
Highest peak in the area was Tamatea Peak (1640m), so that's where I went! Picked the obvious tussock ridgeline from Lake Roe and kept heading up. The top was heavily snow-covered so I wasn't sure if a safe route would be available, but once I got to the final saddle, I was able to take a careful route by kicking steps up the snow slope and then scrambling the exposed rocky ridge to the summit. Phenomenal alpine views from the top - so really worth it to gain some altitude
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646394
Wednesday Nov 29, 2017
Hiking 4:24:25 / 10.5 km (2.4 kph) +507m
Dusky Day 3. Slept in and got a late start to try get to the next hut as late as possible (back in the forest so sandfly prison). Did a bit of exploring to another lake on top and generally took my time before plunging down into the trees after lunch. Heinously steep 900m descent with extended sections of tree root "abseiling"! Very glad conditions were pretty dry when I did it.. Got to the hut at 3pm to a moderately tolerable sandfly situation.
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646825
Monday Nov 27, 2017
Hiking 4:06:48 / 11.0 km (2.7 kph) +348m
Dusky Track Day 1. Beautiful hour-long boat ride to the end of Lake Hauroko where we were dumped and instantly surrounded by swarms of sandflies! Good thing is that as long as you're walking, they can't keep up (lazy buggers). I was planning to double-up straight away and go up to Lake Roe hut but had to eat humble pie as soon as I tried to push the pace on the "track". Very rooty, big sections of knee-deep mud and lots of tree-fall which was frustrating to smash through/over.
So very frustrating at first until I just embraced the fact that 2km/h was my max pace, took it easy and forgot the idea of doubling up. This day was entirely in the forest, following the Hauroko river with a strong feeling of heading deeper into the backcountry.
I had expected to be solo, but was sharing the hut with 3 others. We would all walk at our own paces during the day though. Unfortunately the hut was a little sandfly-infested so we had to cover ourselves from head to toe (in the heat) to keep the bloodsuckers at bay until nightfall when they thankfully went to sleep!
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646705
Tuesday Nov 28, 2017
Hiking 3:30:43 / 7.5 km (2.1 kph) +648m
Dusky day 2. Much better going today - more in my element. One 20min detour when I lost the path and started following a trap line set of ribbons. Heavy going eventually convinced me something was wrong so I turned back. Climbed out of the tree line to a beautiful plateau, dotted with lakes. Looking very Scottish. Reached the hut just after 11am so decided to do some exploring...
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646519
Hiking 3:09:54 / 7.7 km (2.4 kph) +840m
Highest peak in the area was Tamatea Peak (1640m), so that's where I went! Picked the obvious tussock ridgeline from Lake Roe and kept heading up. The top was heavily snow-covered so I wasn't sure if a safe route would be available, but once I got to the final saddle, I was able to take a careful route by kicking steps up the snow slope and then scrambling the exposed rocky ridge to the summit. Phenomenal alpine views from the top - so really worth it to gain some altitude
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646394
Wednesday Nov 29, 2017
Hiking 4:24:25 / 10.5 km (2.4 kph) +507m
Dusky Day 3. Slept in and got a late start to try get to the next hut as late as possible (back in the forest so sandfly prison). Did a bit of exploring to another lake on top and generally took my time before plunging down into the trees after lunch. Heinously steep 900m descent with extended sections of tree root "abseiling"! Very glad conditions were pretty dry when I did it.. Got to the hut at 3pm to a moderately tolerable sandfly situation.
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646825
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28 Jan 2018 15:13 #72719
by Stijn
Replied by Stijn on topic Hiking and Mountaineering in New Zealand
Dusky Track continued...
Thursday Nov 30, 2017
Hiking 4:54:03 / 11.0 km (2.2 kph) +352m
Dusky Day 4. I decided to skip the 2-day out and back leg to Supper Cove, hoping to rather time better weather at the next pass section so that I could summit some more peaks and take in the views. So now I was properly solo and had the trail and remaining huts to myself
Today's route is very prone to flooding and many people end up waist-deep wading big sections of it. But the river was nice and low for me so I had a wonderful day enjoying the ancient moss-draped forest at a nice sloww pace. Best hut (minimal sandflies!).
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646736
Friday Dec 1, 2017
Hiking 8:14:52 / 21.5 km (2.6 kph) +1045m
Dusky Day 5. Clear skies when I started but the clouds rolled in and the drizzle started. Super-technical slippery climb up Centre Pass and unfortunately no wandering about the tops would happen in this weather :-/ Decided to rather push hard past the next hut and try catch the 5pm ferry, hence combining the last 2 days.
Pushing it meant plenty if frustration and slipping, but made good time and caught the 4:15 ferry instead.
All in all a really wild experience! And I seem to have caught it in pretty much the best conditions
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646568
Thursday Nov 30, 2017
Hiking 4:54:03 / 11.0 km (2.2 kph) +352m
Dusky Day 4. I decided to skip the 2-day out and back leg to Supper Cove, hoping to rather time better weather at the next pass section so that I could summit some more peaks and take in the views. So now I was properly solo and had the trail and remaining huts to myself
Today's route is very prone to flooding and many people end up waist-deep wading big sections of it. But the river was nice and low for me so I had a wonderful day enjoying the ancient moss-draped forest at a nice sloww pace. Best hut (minimal sandflies!).
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646736
Friday Dec 1, 2017
Hiking 8:14:52 / 21.5 km (2.6 kph) +1045m
Dusky Day 5. Clear skies when I started but the clouds rolled in and the drizzle started. Super-technical slippery climb up Centre Pass and unfortunately no wandering about the tops would happen in this weather :-/ Decided to rather push hard past the next hut and try catch the 5pm ferry, hence combining the last 2 days.
Pushing it meant plenty if frustration and slipping, but made good time and caught the 4:15 ferry instead.
All in all a really wild experience! And I seem to have caught it in pretty much the best conditions
www.movescount.com/moves/move188646568
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28 Jan 2018 18:29 - 28 Jan 2018 18:34 #72721
by Stijn
Replied by Stijn on topic Hiking and Mountaineering in New Zealand
Milford Track Stealth-Camping
Wednesday Dec 6, 2017
Hiking 7:20:28 / 20.0 km (2.7 kph) +1246m
The Milford Track was fully booked out 6 months in advance and I thought I'd save R3000 anyway by exploiting DOC's rule that you are allowed to camp for free at least 500m off the track. This is very difficult to do on the Milford since it is almost entirely contained by glacially-carved valleys where you hit a cliff before the required 500m. But I did my research and found a perfect spot about 10km into the hike.
In order to skip the ferry to the start (and to get some more adventure), I slogged up and over Dore Pass, which was quite a challenge with a heavy backpack. The route doesn't really have a path but is occasionally marked with orange tags. It reminded me so much of a Berg pass with the initial bundubashing and boulder-hopping up the river
Spectacular views over the Clinton Valley at the top and then quite a frustrating 900m descent through thick forest with plenty of tree-fall. Once I was on the Milford (huge manicured path), it was just a matter of finding the right spot to wade across the river and bundubash up to my scouted spot. Perfect!
www.movescount.com/moves/move189585635
Thursday Dec 7, 2017
Trail Running 9:03:30 / 55.9 km (9:43 / km) +2167m
Such an incredible run! The mountain steepness here is on another level and I was surrounded by waterfalls pretty much all day
Early start with just my running vest and after crossing the river again had great running conditions with the track being so good. My aim was to get to Sutherland Falls (NZ's highest waterfall - 580m) and back, which did involve a double-crossing of McKinnon Pass which kept me honest! Lucky I got to cross it a second time as the views were blocked by mist on my first crossing.
Saw lots of people and had to explain myself to several rangers, showing photos of my campsite location to prove I was camping legally.
Pretty worked by the end of the day but oh so worth it!
www.movescount.com/moves/move189585629
Friday Dec 8, 2017
Hiking 2:00:00 / 9.5 km (4.7 kph) +50m
I was catching the ferry back at 11:45, so had a leisurely start. Other than the swarms of sandflies which made packing up the tent immensely frustrating... After crossing the river yet again it was an easy amble back past all the hikers ("you're going the wrong way!" :-/) to Glade Wharf.
Wednesday Dec 6, 2017
Hiking 7:20:28 / 20.0 km (2.7 kph) +1246m
The Milford Track was fully booked out 6 months in advance and I thought I'd save R3000 anyway by exploiting DOC's rule that you are allowed to camp for free at least 500m off the track. This is very difficult to do on the Milford since it is almost entirely contained by glacially-carved valleys where you hit a cliff before the required 500m. But I did my research and found a perfect spot about 10km into the hike.
In order to skip the ferry to the start (and to get some more adventure), I slogged up and over Dore Pass, which was quite a challenge with a heavy backpack. The route doesn't really have a path but is occasionally marked with orange tags. It reminded me so much of a Berg pass with the initial bundubashing and boulder-hopping up the river
Spectacular views over the Clinton Valley at the top and then quite a frustrating 900m descent through thick forest with plenty of tree-fall. Once I was on the Milford (huge manicured path), it was just a matter of finding the right spot to wade across the river and bundubash up to my scouted spot. Perfect!
www.movescount.com/moves/move189585635
Thursday Dec 7, 2017
Trail Running 9:03:30 / 55.9 km (9:43 / km) +2167m
Such an incredible run! The mountain steepness here is on another level and I was surrounded by waterfalls pretty much all day
Early start with just my running vest and after crossing the river again had great running conditions with the track being so good. My aim was to get to Sutherland Falls (NZ's highest waterfall - 580m) and back, which did involve a double-crossing of McKinnon Pass which kept me honest! Lucky I got to cross it a second time as the views were blocked by mist on my first crossing.
Saw lots of people and had to explain myself to several rangers, showing photos of my campsite location to prove I was camping legally.
Pretty worked by the end of the day but oh so worth it!
www.movescount.com/moves/move189585629
Friday Dec 8, 2017
Hiking 2:00:00 / 9.5 km (4.7 kph) +50m
I was catching the ferry back at 11:45, so had a leisurely start. Other than the swarms of sandflies which made packing up the tent immensely frustrating... After crossing the river yet again it was an easy amble back past all the hikers ("you're going the wrong way!" :-/) to Glade Wharf.
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28 Jan 2018 22:17 #72722
by Stijn
Replied by Stijn on topic Hiking and Mountaineering in New Zealand
Serpentines Traverse
Tuesday Dec 12, 2017
Hiking 6:45:33 / 26.6 km (3.9 kph) +1272m
There was one alpine traverse that I had my eye on for the entire trip and the weather forecast predicted one perfect day in the middle of a rainy week. The plan: use the rainy days to set myself up for the Serpentines traverse on the perfect day and then hike out in the rain again
Day 1 was a long slog along the first 2 days of the Routeburn Track with a heavy 5-day camping load. Pretty good weather and got some amazing views! It is a Great Walk after all
www.movescount.com/moves/move190754384
Wednesday Dec 13, 2017
Hiking 3:42:40 / 8.2 km (2.2 kph) +576m
Woke to rain, was hoping for better weather in the afternoon, so got a late start when it cleared a bit. Socked in again after an hour so had an extended 4-hour lunch break in a little bivvy cave Skies cleared properly at 3pm so I pushed on to reach the 1-man bivvy cave high up the North Col pass, which was about as close as I could get to the traverse for the next day.
Surprisingly rough going up the pass with plenty of proper bush-fighting, slippery boulders and river-wading. Such a cool spot to spend the night though!
www.movescount.com/moves/move190754401
Tuesday Dec 12, 2017
Hiking 6:45:33 / 26.6 km (3.9 kph) +1272m
There was one alpine traverse that I had my eye on for the entire trip and the weather forecast predicted one perfect day in the middle of a rainy week. The plan: use the rainy days to set myself up for the Serpentines traverse on the perfect day and then hike out in the rain again
Day 1 was a long slog along the first 2 days of the Routeburn Track with a heavy 5-day camping load. Pretty good weather and got some amazing views! It is a Great Walk after all
www.movescount.com/moves/move190754384
Wednesday Dec 13, 2017
Hiking 3:42:40 / 8.2 km (2.2 kph) +576m
Woke to rain, was hoping for better weather in the afternoon, so got a late start when it cleared a bit. Socked in again after an hour so had an extended 4-hour lunch break in a little bivvy cave
Skies cleared properly at 3pm so I pushed on to reach the 1-man bivvy cave high up the North Col pass, which was about as close as I could get to the traverse for the next day.Surprisingly rough going up the pass with plenty of proper bush-fighting, slippery boulders and river-wading. Such a cool spot to spend the night though!
www.movescount.com/moves/move190754401
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