The Didima-Tlanyaku area of the Northern Berg continues to be one of the most significant smuggling corridors in the entire Drakensberg. A recent scare involving a group of hikers camping in the area serves as a fresh reminder.
Sometime within the last month, a group of hikers were headed for Schoongezicht Cave. A wrong turn-off onto the Thuthumi Pass trail caused a delay which ultimately caused them to pitch camp at The Neck. At 03:00am in the morning they were startled by the sound of smugglers on the trail, at which they retreated from camp and hid. It is thought that the smugglers mistook them for an armed patrol that was attempting to ambush them (something which does take place in the area), since they started shouting and a gun was fired. Thankfully no-one was harmed in the incident. Should anyone have more details please feel free to share them.
The Tlanyaku-Didima smuggling corridor includes Tlanyaku Pass, Thuthumi Pass, Organ Pipes Pass as well as a “new” pass between Ndumeni Dome and Windsor Castle, which I refer to as Smugglers Pass. This new pass shares much of it’s trail with Thuthumi Pass, splitting off close to the top, behind the Organ Pipes and below the looming cliffs of Ndumeni Dome. The steep grassy gully continuing on from this point to the top of Thuthumi Pass proper, is less used. Very close to this point is also a prominent trail crossing over Thuthumi Ridge, connecting with the Thuthumi route of Organ Pipes Pass. This makes for an interesting network of trails, allowing varied ascents of these passes - a delight to hikers, though marred by it’s troubled origins.
The Tlanyaku valley of Lesotho funnels the smuggling of dagga into this area, and after a choice of passes the route generally converges again through the Ndedema Gorge (though smugglers may also be seen around Ribbon Falls). Basotho smugglers are typically encountered descending the passes late afternoon, the drop-offs occurring at night, after which they return to Lesotho that same night still. It is not unusual to hear them ascend the passes throughout the night.
They are armed but generally pose no immediate threat to hikers and prefer not to even have contact. Problems do arise at night however, when hikers are camping or sleeping in caves along their routes. This is definitely not the first case of an unpleasant confrontation involving hikers camping in the area.
It is recommended to avoid using the campsites at either end of Ndedema Gorge, or at The Neck. Gravel Shelter and the Organ Pipes Lookout Hut are also risky, and may be used by the smugglers in bad weather or as resting places. They may bypass the campsite at the bottom of Tlanyaku Pass but one is never quite sure which way they will go exactly. Schoongezicht Cave lies off the trail and does have a more difficult access which includes a river crossing, which makes it a little safer. The risk not eliminated however, and it is best avoided during the peak smuggling season. Camping near the top of the passes concerned should always be avoided.
Always check with the staff at Didima Camp for updates before setting off on a hike. If the authorities are on a security patrol in the area it is best to stay away since gun battles often ensue, particularly at night.
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