An aspect of the Berg that is a joy and challenge to hikers are the many passes leading up onto the escarpment. They may follow ridges or gulleys, some have paths, others are a formidable climb. The hiking maps indicate the popular and more known ones, though there are many more unmarked ones.
What makes the majority of these passes unique from other mountain passes is that they only ascend up one side of the range. Indeed this is what makes the Drakensberg unique - it is generally not ridge-shaped, rather it is shaped like a gigantic step in the earth's crust the summit of which is referred to as the escarpment which roughly forms the border with Lesotho.
Typically the passes ascend from the South African side up onto the escarpment. A rather interesting exception among the passes of the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park is that of Isicatula Pass in the Bushman's Neck area of the Southern Berg. It is a steep gulley leading up to the escarpment edge from the Lesotho side.
There are a few, interesting sections of the Drakensberg where the range becomes a knife ridge, the section between Qacha’s Neck and Nene’s Gate in the Eastern Cape being a good example.
A discussion around Drakensberg passes is typically centred on those in the Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg Park in KwaZulu-Natal, which are the most known, named and climbed. There are around 73 named passes marked on the maps, with many more unnamed ones which become apparent when hiking in the Berg.
Several of these passes are marked as “rock” passes on the hiking maps. This is generally an indication that the pass is a steep rocky gully, typically full of loose boulders. They have no established trail and usually involve some scrambling to some degree or another and a few even involve technical rock-climbing where equipment may be needed. Some of these rock passes are ascended fairly regularly and, though challenging, pose no major difficulty for a well-prepared hiking party. Examples include Cockade Pass and Corner Pass. In general these passes require a strong sense of adventure, endurance and technical competence which makes them unsuitable for novice hikers. In recent years the Basutho smugglers have forged trails on some of these, making them much more accessible as a result and thus can no longer be described as rock passes. A good example is that of Judge Pass.
The “hiking” passes, in contrast to the rock passes, generally involve easier terrain, either in gullies or on ridges, though some still present a formidable challenge. A consideration here is the existence or absence of an established trail. A trail makes the pass much easier than what it would be without one, the converse also being true that some passes are difficult mainly due to the absence of a trail.
A pass such as Ships Prow (South Fork) could be a lot easier if there were a trail through the arduous bushes and boulders on the approach, and on the steep, rocky, lower half of the climb. Rwanqa Pass is one which, if the right route is taken, poses no technical difficulties, though, due to the absence of a path, a harder route is often mistakenly taken.
The table in Passes of the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park lists the named passes and indicates if they do / do not have trails or if they are rock passes.
There may be several variations of the pass, where, either there are different routes leading to the same summit point, or there exist separate routes which summit very close to each other (examples include Fangs Pass, Mzimkhulu Pass and Walkers Pass).
And, as anyone who has spent a little time in the Berg will know, there are many passes that are not marked on the maps, almost as many as one dares to imagine and dares to try! In some cases it is hard to understand why some these remained unnamed while other very difficult ones were recognised and put on the map! Some of the more known ones include the pass between Pins and Mweni Passes, referred to by some as “Manxsome”, and Apes Pass, below The Ape Peak at Injasuthi.
The smugglers have also created some entirely new passes, complete with a fully established trail! Some notable ones include what the author calls Smugglers Pass, which is a combination of Organ Pipes Pass (Thuthumi route) and Thuthumi Pass, and which ultimately has its own summit just south of the Ndumeni Dome. Another example is one which lies between Ka Ntuba and Mangaun Passes in the Vergelegen area.
Of relevance to hikers if a pass is used by Basuthos as this is increasingly a security issue. Making use of these passes are herdsmen, smugglers, rustlers and those entering South Africa for legitimate reasons such as social visits, shopping and work. Please visit our dedicated section on the security threat in the Drakensberg. The table in Passes of the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park provides an evaluation of the extent of the use of these passes by the Basuthos.
Passes outside of the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park are largely unknown or unnamed, though a few have recognised names and are generally used by Basuthos. There is a wealth of relatively unexplored mountains in these areas and several passes or routes yet to be opened!
Some known passes in the Qwa Qwa section (in the Free State province) include Namahadi Pass (included on the hiking maps), Pitsaneng Pass (referred to as such by the author – this is a smuggling route linking up with Phuthaditjhaba via the Pitsaneng valley), Metjhatijhane Pass (referred to as such by the author – named after the associated peak) and Monantsa Pass (a road pass and border post).
Some passes in the KwaZulu-Natal section south of Sehlabathebe National Park include Ramatseliso’s Neck and DeKok’s Gate.
The Eastern Cape section boasts Qacha’s Neck, Three Sisters Pass, Nene’s Gate, Pack Ox Neck, Ongeluksnek, Dikgaebaneng Pass, New Gate, Tsatsana’s Gate, Lehana’s Pass, Naudesnek, Barkly Pass and Otto Du Plessis Pass.
A number of road passes snake their way through this foreboding mountain range. The majority continue into Lesotho and have associated border posts. These are:
- Monantsa Pass (Free State) – border post
- Sani Pass (KwaZulu-Natal) – border post
- Ramatseliso’s Neck (KwaZulu-Natal) – border post
- Qacha’s Neck (Eastern Cape) – border post
- Ongeluksnek (Eastern Cape) – border post
- Naudesnek (Eastern Cape)
- Barkly Pass (Eastern Cape)
- Otto Du Plessis Pass (Eastern Cape)
Drakensberg passes are an inevitable part of any discussion on hiking in the Berg. They bring you right into the heart of this Dragon, allowing you to see and experience it close hand. A journey beginning by pleasant streams and pools in the valleys, progressing beyond the vast, grassy plains and ridges of the Little Berg, to a place where the spires and buttresses of the High Berg loom forebodingly over you, and where finally, after much strenuous climbing, the starting point far and small below you, with lofty views unfolding, you reach the summit with a renewed sense of awe and respect, and step into the harsh environs of the escarpment. The challenge of passes lives on in the hearts of those enchanted by this fierce but inviting Dragon!
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