A Shepherd's Tale

My wife Christeen wrote this up for our Facebook page – but I think the story deserves a wider audience… I have edited it slightly.

"In November this year, as we hiked the 24kms back down the Makhapung valley to ‘No 10 Riverside’ in Lesotho, after summiting Thabana Ntlenyana (3482m) with a Drakensberg Adventures’ client from France, we were joined by a young Mosotho shepherd. After exchanging greetings, he walked with us for a while, and related this story to our guide Ntate Realeboha in Sesotho, who then translated it for Patrick and myself after the shepherd had turned back to continue looking after his animals. The shepherd had been curious to see us hiking with Ntate Realeboha, using donkeys to carry our kit and supplies, and this reminded him of an experience he'd had…

During July, (mid-winter), he and another shepherd were surprised to see a makhooa (white man) walking high up the valley towards their motibo (shepherds house). It was late afternoon and beginning to snow, so they asked the man where he was from and where he was going, as he only had a small bag on his back.

The hiker told them he was a foreigner from Europe and was intending to hike to Thabana Ntlenyana and back to Makhapung Village – where No 10 Riverside is situated, – in a day – approximately 48km and well over 1000m ascent and descent. No 10 Riverside is about 20 kilometres from Mokhotlong on the Sani Pass road.

The shepherds knew Thabana Ntlenyana was still many kilometres away, so they persuaded him to spend the night with them in their motibo. As he didn't have any food left, or a sleeping bag, they shared their food and blankets with him, making a fire to keep warm.

In the morning the snow was knee deep, but the hiker still insisted on continuing to the summit. He asked the shepherds to walk with him and they agreed because they were worried about his safety.

After a short distance the hiker realised he wasn't able to continue, the snow was too deep and he was tiring rapidly, so they all returned to the motibo.

The following morning the hiker asked the shepherds to guide him back to the road where his vehicle was parked. Again they agreed to help him, and, as he was now weak tired and cold, carried his rucksack for him as they led him back down the valley.

Once they had reached his vehicle, the grateful hiker asked the shepherds how much he should pay them for helping him by giving him food and shelter and for guiding him back to safety.

The shepherds replied that they had not helped him for money. They lived a simple life as shepherds and would be happy with R20.00 each. The shepherds were amazed when he gave them R450.00 each!

They went straight to the small shop in Makhapung Village and bought some extra, unexpected food treats to take back to their motibo!

These are unsung heroes of Lesotho. Only a chance meeting has made their ‘good news’ story known".

I am convinced from my knowledge and experience of Lesotho, that if the 'good-news' stories of interactions between hikers and Basotho people in the mountains were actually told with the same fervour that the 'bad-news' stories, they would outnumber the 'bad-news' stories something like 1000:1

That is a great story, and brings a lump to the throat. All in the mountains would like to be able to help, and be helped in this manner.

Great story - thanks for sharing

I had an interesting chat with a local once (just south of No Man's Peak). He spoke pretty good English and followed me for about 1km telling me about how he had moved to Durban, but preferred the mountains so he returned to the highlands as a shepherd. I agree that we often pass these friendly people by, assuming they are bad news when sometimes they just want someone to talk to.