The Bugaboos

Wow, I'm actually posting a write-up! This summer I did my first trip to the Bugaboos ("the Bugs") - a world-class alpine rock climbing destination in Canada. We just stuck to the easier routes this time, but being out there definitely inspires one to work at climbing better and harder. The mountains and climbing routes out there are very impressive to say the least. It attracts many climbers and its quite amazing what some of these guys are climbing.

First impression of the Bugs is the parking lot - all cars have to be barricaded with chicken wire, which is propped up by wood poles. This keeps critters like porcupines from chewing up things such as the brake lines on the cars.


Views of the Bugaboo Glacier on the walk in:


There is a hut lower down which some stay at, but the Applebee Dome Campsite is a popular choice for climbers. It is one of 2 designated
places that you are allowed to camp at within the conserved areas of the Bugaboos. Campsite are often designated and managed within the parks of Canada - you cannot just camp where you want. All toilet waste is helicoptered out and food caches (steel lockers) are usually provided to keep your food safe not just from bears but from a host of other critters that want it. In the Bugs the small critters may even chew into backpacks and into tents. So even packs have to hung up out of reach. You can make out the blue toilet barrels, green food caches and the clothes-line type structures for hanging up your pack in the pic below. Appreciate the freedom of camping pretty much where you want in the Berg, and the relative minor issue with animals who are after your food!


Chill-time at camp after a day climbing:


View of the East face of Snowpatch Spire from camp with the Crescent Glacier (3084m):


To the right of Snowpatch Spire in the picture above is the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col - an important access point in the Bugs, and the scene of most accidents there due to the Bergschrund which becomes more pronounced as the summer progresses, and rockfall hazard.

Bugaboo Spire (3204m)  is one of several iconic peaks in the area and is an extremely impressive and dominating mountain.


Vowell Glacier and mountains all around:


Brenta Spire and Cobalt Lake:


Its summer but some of the higher lakes have not thawed open yet:


Eastpost Spire and the water supply for the camp area:

The actual climbing is on granite, and tends to be really good, solid rock. Still plenty of rockfall hazard though, as with any mountain, and I heard several stories at camp from other climbers backing off a route after getting too many rocks coming down at the them from other groups ahead of them.

Your slab and crack-climbing techniques will need to be on form here.




The rappels (abseils) can also be pretty cool:

Pigeon Spire (3156m) viewed from the Upper Vowel Glacier, with the right-hand skyline being the extremely popular and enjoyable West Ridge route:


The three Hauser Towers offer very challenging and long climbs:


Pigeon Tower And Hauser Towers viewed from the South Ridge of Bugaboo Spire:


Fine but easy climbing up the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire:


Looking across to the upper half and summit of Pigeon Spire:


The classic knife-ridge along the route. Yes, its as exposed at it looks, dropping off on either side!

Pigeon Spire from Bugaboo Glacier:


South Face of Snowpatch Spire:


Icefall and crevasses:


Bugaboo Spire, the Kain Route ascending to the summit on the right hand skyline:


Along the Kain Route:



Climbing up to "The Gendarme":


Looking down along the final pitch of the Kain Route:



The brave little VE buff that made it to the summit of Bugaboo Spire:

Let me end this off.

Mountains are beautiful places. Indescribable really. But mountains are also lonely and dangerous places. Without the soul of man, they would only be the latter. Inside the soul of man they become the expression of what he seeks and yearns for. Admittedly the satisfaction they offer is fleeting, and the yearning continues. Perhaps this is by design.

I acknowledge that these journeys, these climbs, these photos and memories would also be nothing without those with whom it is undertaken.


I reflect too on my journeys in the Drakensberg with gratitude. Few of them were done alone. The better ones were with company. Thank you.

Perhaps this the longest write-up I've done. I hope it makes up for the majority of memories that I never write about, and gives an insight into mountains on this side of the world.

In closing: always cherish what we have in the Drakensberg. In spite of the lore of "text-book" mountaineering elsewhere, what we have in the Berg is special, unique and irreplaceable.

Thanks elinda. The pink results from algae, its sometimes called watermelon snow. It occurs during the summer months especially and its accentuated by the snow melting and concentrating substances as a result on the surface of the snow.