Gully opposite Monks Cowl

Hi Guys

You are going to make me jealous. I recall when Brad aka serious tribe 2 was standing on that point and i was taking the images. We had a chat about doing that gully. In fact the topic has come up in conversation a few times when we have been in the area. Just never got around to doing it, always another trip to get images was planned.

I have attached another image of the gully a bit zoomed in.

Cheers
Karl
{joomplu:214}

I have been really keen to do this gully as a snow accent. We stood on top over easter and thought about tyring to do and abseil down it to check it out. (steps etc) I think it could be a really awesome climb in winter!!!

Maybe we get a group of us together to do it. I have 2 people.

I think snow axes, crampons and ropes would be a good idea too. (Maybe a few screws as well.)

Frosty

Hi Intrepid

That is indeed the gully. In fact the red speck at left is my good self looking long and hard at same gully.Forgot about that pic. Awesome weekend, and we got snow.

Hi Frosty

Interesting that you say you would have had to abseil in. Were you at the top out of the gully or further along the ridges N or S ?
Deff enough snow (read ice)for a winter ascent.

Am still interested to hear if ANYONE has in fact DONE this. Any MCSA guys out there?

If this is indeed the Champagne Castle South Gully, then yes (in 1955) - here's the RD from kzn.mcsa.org.za/berg/bcathkinrds.html#ChampSGully

CHAMPAGNE CASTLE: South Gully Route (D) (Map #2 : AY:61 : 3246m)

Opening Party: Des Watkins, Pam Richards, J B Anderson and Roy Denny.

Date: July 1955.

Time: About 3 hours to the top.

From Keith Bush Camp walk upstream for about one hour to a major fork. The gully on the left leads up to the Monk's Cowl - Champagne Castle nek and the gully on the right leads straight up the north west face of Champagne Castle. Why the route is called the south gully route, heaven alone knows. Climb the gully, with a couple of D pitches, to reach the top of the escarpment about 500m from the highest point of Champagne Castle. This is possibly one of the better known winter climbs. Depending on conditions it can range from a most enjoyable snow and ice route to a 6 hour slog through slush! Descend via Grey's Pass.

Ref: MCSA Journal 1955, pg 39.

I don't think that this could be the route on Champagne Castle. We were looking west from the ledge near Cowl Cave, and the prominent rock face to the right of the gully is the wall above grey's pass. Champagne Castle would have been the huge rock that was above Cowl Cave. Certainly the route description given in the mcsa is correct, and would get you to this gully.

Perhaps that entire section is called Champagne Castle, however this is not apparent from the Slingsby map. Although on the new map, the name Champagne Castle is correctly sited at trig 3377m. South of this would be Ships Prow Pass? Not sure why it is called the Champagne Castle South Gully.

Some berg routes, especially gullies and ridges, have gotten really haywire names over the years, and this is one of them ("Why the route is called the south gully route, heaven alone knows"). Same with Giant;s Castle "south" ridge which runs almost perfectly west-to-east!

Looking further into the prospect of doing this gully, I have come accross Peak High Mountaineerings website.
They give the route a grade 2.
Which means: Grade 2 Easy angled front pointing, short sections of 80 degrees with good protection.
My thoughts are around the type of protection refered to here? Snow anchors, ice screws or traditional placements. (Conditions dependent maybe? Surely trad placements might be availible on the sides?) I think a few ice screws may go a long way. (Dont think they had those in 1955?) This description also makes me think that crampons are a good idea.(The semi rigid ones. Sigh $$$$) On 80 degree slopes self arrest surely becomes difficult, so should you not make the route down climbing will be needed as ab points will probabaly not be availible.
@serious tribe 2 - I would take ropes to ab because you cant see the whole way down. There may well be a number of steps requiring rope work. Yes I was standing at the top of the gully. We had walked up the peak to the left looking up from keiths.

I'm thinking about trying it in July.

Looking down the gully