Gully opposite Monks Cowl

Some berg routes, especially gullies and ridges, have gotten really haywire names over the years, and this is one of them ("Why the route is called the south gully route, heaven alone knows"). Same with Giant;s Castle "south" ridge which runs almost perfectly west-to-east!

Looking further into the prospect of doing this gully, I have come accross Peak High Mountaineerings website.
They give the route a grade 2.
Which means: Grade 2 Easy angled front pointing, short sections of 80 degrees with good protection.
My thoughts are around the type of protection refered to here? Snow anchors, ice screws or traditional placements. (Conditions dependent maybe? Surely trad placements might be availible on the sides?) I think a few ice screws may go a long way. (Dont think they had those in 1955?) This description also makes me think that crampons are a good idea.(The semi rigid ones. Sigh $$$$) On 80 degree slopes self arrest surely becomes difficult, so should you not make the route down climbing will be needed as ab points will probabaly not be availible.
@serious tribe 2 - I would take ropes to ab because you cant see the whole way down. There may well be a number of steps requiring rope work. Yes I was standing at the top of the gully. We had walked up the peak to the left looking up from keiths.

I'm thinking about trying it in July.

Looking down the gully

I had a good look at this gully from the top of Cowl - have some pics with it choked with snow. looks like a straight-forward climb. Let me know if you want the pics.

R

So, is there anyone out there who would like to climb a gully soon? I ended up very unfortunately getting flu this weekend and missed all the snow!

www.climb.co.za/2011/07/ice-report-8-pictures/

Seems as though the gullys should be good un in a week or two!

Let me know

Graham

Wow, those ice climbing images r really cool. Yes i know, awful pun. It is amazing how thick that ice looks.

It must be the result of thawing of the river during the day and then as it flows down the falls freezing during the day, or later afternoon and night, thus adding layer upon layer of ice. If anyone knows the science, i would be interested in hearing if my theory is not correct.

Champagne South Gully should be in good nick about now. This photo was taken on 7 August (excuse the graininess... there was lots of spindrift around!) - looks like a spectacular route: