climbs near Mahai Rest Camp

19 Oct 2010 16:22 #1928 by t_t_e
are there any good single pitch climbs near Mahai Rest Camp. Witch are best and what sort of grades?

Thanks

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20 Oct 2010 07:02 #1930 by Frosty Ice
Yes there are climbs, good climbs no! Not that I know of anyway. But there is some bouldering which is very hard. We have top roped quite a few things though so maybe keep exploring and you will find a something awesome!

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20 Oct 2010 22:17 #1933 by intrepid
Don't know of anything either. The Berg hasn't really been developed for that kind of thing, its more about the High Berg. Plenty of sandstone around on the Little Berg if you care to take a shot at that. Bolts have been set up on Policeman's Helmet - thats one route I know of - but they might be a bit sketchy by now. Check out the MCSA route descriptions.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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08 Jul 2013 11:50 #57573 by hasamatt
Great question!
We have returned every Easter since I was a child. Back in 2006, I spotted this boulder's short face, and decided to bring the gear up the next day. The boulder lies along the upper Mahai river - right next to the path that heads towards Dooley Waters / Mahai falls. You head up from Mahai Camp site towards Lookout Rock, then turn right on the path that heads to Gudu Bush. At the Gudu junction, head left towards The Crack. Continue on the path towards McKinley's (Mike's) Pools, passing straight by the junction that heads up the crack. Soon you will see this boulder directly on your left. And you have a nice view of the side of Dooley. The boulder (like many in the area - including one or two just above Cascades) always seem to have a steep, challenging face, and a side that can be scrambled up to set up a top rope.

I reckon that the boulder is about a 10m climb, and has a nice start, and a nice finish. An easier climb to the right edge of the boulder (Probably a grade 16 - 18). Very challenging to the left (Grade 25+).


I reckon that the boulder is about a 10m climb, and has a nice start, and a nice finish. The sandstone quality is very similar to that of Harrismith's mount everest, and perhaps even the same quality as Swinburne's boulders. The crown of the boulder has lots of little chicken-heads for wrapping slings around, and decent cracks for bomber placements. We set up a top rope.


There is a decent incline on the boulder, and you belay from a steep slope looking down onto the upper Mahai River. Magic setting!


My brother James having a go at it. He didn't pack his climbing shoes, and the start was quite difficult with running shoes. He later discarded the shoes, and had a go barefoot... ouch.




The only thing to watch out for if you choose the top rope position that I did, is a little pendulum. But recovering for a bail would not be a problem. Also take a rope/sling protector for where the top-rope anchor meets the edge of the boulder.







All in all, its a lovely little outing up the valley, away from all the campers and Easter activity. Along the way, you will spot a number of other boulders that we have also climbed, but none have been as good as this. We havnt explored the boulders lying directly beneath Dooley's cliffs, but there seem to be many with great potential.

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The following user(s) said Thank You: intrepid, ghaznavid, tonymarshall, HFc, ASL #Bivak

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08 Jul 2013 13:10 #57575 by hasamatt
Oh, and if anyone picks up a figure of 8 descender, don't use it... it bounced a couple of times when it fell off the side of the boulder!

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08 Jul 2013 14:36 #57577 by ghaznavid
Thanks for sharing!

Fitness and I will be at the Cavern in just over a week for some bouldering and trad (and possibly top rope if we try anything difficult).

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09 Jul 2013 11:21 #57587 by ASL #Bivak
great pics thanks!

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