Hodgesons South scrambling route
09 Dec 2008 21:24 #250
by intrepid
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Hodgesons South scrambling route was created by intrepid
In contrast to the straightforward slog up it's northern counterpart, Hodgeson's South Peak has no obvious route through it's rocky tip. Viewed from the Giant's Cup, foreboding cliffs guard the summit. And at first glance things don't look that much better from the other side either.
However, a walk along the base of the cliffs on the southern side will at some stage bring you to a cairn. This marks the beginning of a grade B scramble, involving a zigzag through grass and rock ledges to a gully which brings you onto the ridge, from where one can walk to the summit. The cairn is situated at S29 37.444 E29 17.098 (WGS84). If you are starting from the Giant's Cup side you will need to first slog up to the obvious saddle between the peak and it's Lesotho neighbour in order to access this side.
For the more adventurous climbers, there is also a short C-D grade route. At an obvious gully, or recess of sorts, near the beginning of the summit ridge, traverse out left on the rock for several meters. The ridge is gained from there by a short awkward move involving boulders that may come loose at some point! Next is several meters of traversing on a knife ridge, heading right (the rock is crumbly). From there one walks to the B grade gully of the easier route mentioned above. It's a fairly easy manoeuvre into the gully from where the summit is easily accessible.
However, a walk along the base of the cliffs on the southern side will at some stage bring you to a cairn. This marks the beginning of a grade B scramble, involving a zigzag through grass and rock ledges to a gully which brings you onto the ridge, from where one can walk to the summit. The cairn is situated at S29 37.444 E29 17.098 (WGS84). If you are starting from the Giant's Cup side you will need to first slog up to the obvious saddle between the peak and it's Lesotho neighbour in order to access this side.
For the more adventurous climbers, there is also a short C-D grade route. At an obvious gully, or recess of sorts, near the beginning of the summit ridge, traverse out left on the rock for several meters. The ridge is gained from there by a short awkward move involving boulders that may come loose at some point! Next is several meters of traversing on a knife ridge, heading right (the rock is crumbly). From there one walks to the B grade gully of the easier route mentioned above. It's a fairly easy manoeuvre into the gully from where the summit is easily accessible.
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
The following user(s) said Thank You: ghaznavid
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01 Apr 2009 01:11 #396
by ClimbyKel
Replied by ClimbyKel on topic Re:Hodgesons South scrambling route
Do you have photos of this route?
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01 Apr 2009 15:23 - 01 Apr 2009 15:26 #397
by intrepid
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Replied by intrepid on topic Re:Hodgesons South scrambling route
Currently don't have good pics of the routes.
The photo below shows the guarded northern flank. The positions of the two routes on the summit ridge are indicated, though these are climbed from the other side.
The following pic shows the southern flank. Though not very clear, the B grade gully is on the left edge of the photo.
The photo below shows the guarded northern flank. The positions of the two routes on the summit ridge are indicated, though these are climbed from the other side.
This image is hidden for guests.
The following pic shows the southern flank. Though not very clear, the B grade gully is on the left edge of the photo.
This image is hidden for guests.
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Last edit: 01 Apr 2009 15:26 by intrepid.
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01 Apr 2009 22:32 #398
by ClimbyKel
Replied by ClimbyKel on topic Re:Hodgesons South scrambling route
Thanks intrepid.
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23 Sep 2014 11:46 #61869
by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Re:Hodgesons South scrambling route
Hoping to take a shot at this one in a few days, weather and time permitting.
Thanks for the detail Intrepid - that is very helpful! I will try to get some photos from closer up to the peak for future reference.
Thanks for the detail Intrepid - that is very helpful! I will try to get some photos from closer up to the peak for future reference.
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21 Jan 2015 09:31 #62669
by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Re:Hodgesons South scrambling route
My experience of the route - as you walk from the saddle towards the southern side, contour around the large cliffs until you see a massive cairn (you can't miss it). It isn't clear in this photo, but it is around the red circle.
Just before your reach the cairn you will find a grassy bank with a highway trail on it. Take this.
The trail isn't obvious in this photo, but aside from minor exposure in places, it is really not difficult:
The trail leads back towards the saddle, but between the cliff lines. It leads to 2 small easy scrambles with no real exposure:
Return via the same route, good trail etc:
I agree with Intrepid's rating of this as B-grade, and the only exposed bits are on a good trail - so there is nothing to be worried about. The peak has a view that is worth the slog - I recommend that anyone standing in the saddle near South Hodgeson's Peak who has not been up this peak should go up it
Just before your reach the cairn you will find a grassy bank with a highway trail on it. Take this.
The trail isn't obvious in this photo, but aside from minor exposure in places, it is really not difficult:
The trail leads back towards the saddle, but between the cliff lines. It leads to 2 small easy scrambles with no real exposure:
Return via the same route, good trail etc:
I agree with Intrepid's rating of this as B-grade, and the only exposed bits are on a good trail - so there is nothing to be worried about. The peak has a view that is worth the slog - I recommend that anyone standing in the saddle near South Hodgeson's Peak who has not been up this peak should go up it
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