Cleft Peak
05 Apr 2011 10:36 #2651
by Aux
Cleft Peak was created by Aux
Hi all.
I want to know if anyone maybe have a idee for where the 2 climbs (Godbolds and gully) goes. I have read the R.D. on MCSA kzn and i am still not 100% sure. It will most probably make sense if one is close to the face itself but i would like to have a ruff idee of what to head for.
Is that the only climbs on Cleft, there is a massive amount of rock there and will be interesting to try and find a new line up it.
I want to know if anyone maybe have a idee for where the 2 climbs (Godbolds and gully) goes. I have read the R.D. on MCSA kzn and i am still not 100% sure. It will most probably make sense if one is close to the face itself but i would like to have a ruff idee of what to head for.
Is that the only climbs on Cleft, there is a massive amount of rock there and will be interesting to try and find a new line up it.
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07 Apr 2011 12:14 - 07 Apr 2011 12:37 #2665
by intrepid
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Replied by intrepid on topic Re: Cleft Peak
I was in the Tseketseke Valley in December, with a print-out of the RD in hand, studying Cleft Peak and I still had a hard time identifying the 2 routes.
I've identified a possible approach to the Frontal Route - see first picture, dotted line on the left. However, when viewed from the Camel, things look more messy - see second picture. Obviously a lot of time is lost on the approach, both Brian Godbold and co, and Martin Winter on the subsequent ascent, finished in the dark and walked back down well into the night.
It might be better camping at the top of Tseke Pass, and descending the pass early in the morning, while its still dark, so this doesn't have to be done after the climb.
As for the Diagonal Gully Route, hmmm. Starting directly under the main cleft and ending up 1 km further away from the summit? Doesn't add up totally. I see 2 possibilities which are highlighted well in the second pic from the Camel. The one furthest to the right looks more like a pass than a climbing route, and I've eyed it out for a couple of years already. It would be approached about a third of the way up Tseke Pass.
From the pics I can spot several gullies where new routes could be opened up. Good luck and let us know how things go!
View from northern slopes of Tseketseke Valley:
View from the Camel:
I've identified a possible approach to the Frontal Route - see first picture, dotted line on the left. However, when viewed from the Camel, things look more messy - see second picture. Obviously a lot of time is lost on the approach, both Brian Godbold and co, and Martin Winter on the subsequent ascent, finished in the dark and walked back down well into the night.
As for the Diagonal Gully Route, hmmm. Starting directly under the main cleft and ending up 1 km further away from the summit? Doesn't add up totally. I see 2 possibilities which are highlighted well in the second pic from the Camel. The one furthest to the right looks more like a pass than a climbing route, and I've eyed it out for a couple of years already. It would be approached about a third of the way up Tseke Pass.
From the pics I can spot several gullies where new routes could be opened up. Good luck and let us know how things go!
View from northern slopes of Tseketseke Valley:
View from the Camel:
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
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Last edit: 07 Apr 2011 12:37 by intrepid.
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08 Apr 2011 05:26 #2668
by Aux
Replied by Aux on topic Re: Cleft Peak
Hi Intrepid
I hade the same problem, the R.D. doesnt make sence. I will go and scope it out from the top on the hike in 3 weeks time. Otherwise i must just hike to the bottom and see if one can find the bivvy cave thay talk about, then atleast one will have a idee, but that is also some way up the peak. I realy want to climb it.
I hade the same problem, the R.D. doesnt make sence. I will go and scope it out from the top on the hike in 3 weeks time. Otherwise i must just hike to the bottom and see if one can find the bivvy cave thay talk about, then atleast one will have a idee, but that is also some way up the peak. I realy want to climb it.
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