How to summit The Witch

02 Apr 2009 11:01 - 03 Sep 2012 18:52 #399 by intrepid
Ever had thoughts to scale The Witch in the Didima area? I finally had an opportunity to climb it in February. The problem is the basalt rock band, several meters high, which guards the summit.

My first attempt was at position 1 as indicated in the picture. I guestimated the grade to be E, but since it was wet I decided not to. It is very exposed with shear cliffs on one side.



I managed to climb up via a chimney at position 2. I would also put the grade around an E, though it is a very short pitch and can be soloed. The trick is to get up to the chock stone (indicated by the arrow in the picture below), wrap your arms around it, and swing your legs onto some footholds higher up.



Was happy I managed to get up at that point, but was getting worried about how to get down! Luckily I found an easy access (C grade) at position 3. It's not that apparent from the bottom and the route, though short, is very exposed, alongside a shear cliff of several hundred meters.

Along the ridge leading up to Pampiring from The Witch is another prominent, rocky summit, which is actually a spectacular knife ridge. It can be scrambled up but the exposure is pretty severe.

Views are awesome from both summits!

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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Last edit: 03 Sep 2012 18:52 by intrepid. Reason: Fixed missing images
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08 Sep 2015 21:18 #65029 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic How to summit The Witch
Thanks for the writeup Chris :thumbsup:

Re the chockstone: do you rate it is possible to get a sling around it, and do you think is it solid enough to aid climb with a knotted rope this sling?

Also is there something suitable on top to anchor an abseil off?

I know I am testing your memory from a while back, but any info would be a great help!

Funny to post a question on a thread that was started before I even had a clue what a khulu is :laugh:

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09 Sep 2015 09:31 - 09 Sep 2015 11:41 #65033 by intrepid
Replied by intrepid on topic How to summit The Witch
The chockstone was solid at the time that I used it, and you could throw a rope around it, or simply sit on a mate's shoulders for that matter. All of this has less relevance though since the easiest is to use the route at position 3.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Last edit: 09 Sep 2015 11:41 by intrepid.
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09 Sep 2015 11:40 #65035 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic How to summit The Witch
I'm guessing this is position 3 (photo by Tony Marshall) :


We can check out both, but the exposure worries me. I guess we will make a call when we get there.

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09 Sep 2015 11:44 #65036 by intrepid
Replied by intrepid on topic How to summit The Witch
That should be more or less where it is yes. Exposure was very short lived.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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09 Sep 2015 14:44 #65041 by GerritHuman
Replied by GerritHuman on topic How to summit The Witch
Is the Witch towards the Organ pipes or more North towards Twins cave?

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09 Sep 2015 14:47 #65042 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic How to summit The Witch
No, south of Thlanyako Pass, just below the Yodelers and above Didima Falls.
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27 Sep 2015 21:00 #65194 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic How to summit The Witch
Tony Marshall and myself checked this summit out this weekend. There is also an option D - walk past option C round to the escarpment edge side and do a completely hands-free ascent :laugh:


As it turns out, the summit is easy to climb via this side. There is even a faint trail. It has basically no exposure, the "scariest" spot is about 2 steps long on a 30cm+ wide flat rock above a 2m drop - so nothing serious.

We also did check out the E and C route, both looked reasonable, and there is a rather large anchor rock at the top of the E for those wanting to abseil down (although this may be rather arbitrary in light of the walking route on the other side).

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