Cathedral summit from Cathedral Peak Hotel

24 Nov 2011 18:47 - 24 Nov 2011 19:12 #4994 by RobD
I haven’t climbed the Cathedral Peak for years but had occasion to do so in October. The route I am familiar with is where the path basically follows the ridge from Orange Peel Gap, and then the river, walking directly toward the NE face of the peak. The final hundred metres or so go up the gully on the left (South) of the peak where you top out and then go down the loose so -called “Bugger Gully” towards the Bell - and ultimately Twins – the “Bell Traverse”. To gain the actual peak I have always gone up the gully until about 10 metres from the top and then followed a series of rather thin ledges out right, all the way around until on the NE face where the path becomes fairly distinct and meanders to the top, via the one ladder. I am sure many of you are familiar with this relatively straight-forward route.

Well, in October we happened to be sitting at the base of the gully about to go up (and then out to the right on the ledges) when Moses, the guide from the hotel, told us they have opened a new and improved route up the peak, directly up the slabs on the NE face. So we followed him and his client, resulting in a route I hope I never repeat in the ‘Berg again. It was very exposed, particularly for some novices with us. In my opinion the old ledges are still a much safer route onto and off the peak, particularly when wet.

Some members of our group followed the guide back down the slabby route. The hotel has placed a few strategic bolts above the scary bits which apparently helped enormously, along with a short piece of rope. It’s something I don’t intend to try, even with the rope, when there is a safe alternative.

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Last edit: 24 Nov 2011 19:12 by intrepid. Reason: embedded image

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25 Nov 2011 07:04 #4995 by intrepid
Thanks for sharing this Rob. I've used the "new" route more than once (but before the rope and bolts were placed). There are also more possibilities further to the right (off the picture). Do agree that it is a little tricky. Have also climbed Cathedral in the dripping wet and yes, its even worse then. I wonder why they think that route is better? The MCSA RD has this to say about the "old" route:

Apparently a recent, severe wash-away in Bugger Gully has made the approach described above quite tricky. An alternative approach is to start about 150 m below the top of the gully at a flat, grassy section situated just before the last, loose slope up to the top of the gully. Walk out along the grass ledge to the right and then take the line of least resistance up a series of slabs and rock bands until you locate the path described above.

But by the sound of things, the "old" route is still fine?
I'm also not thrilled about the new bolts and rope.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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05 Dec 2011 14:10 #5099 by renebur
we planning to do Cathedral in january.Starting at Cathedral Peak Hotel.How is the route to the top? Is there anywhere where i can get the route on gps? This is the first time we planning to get to the top.Any suggestions?

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06 Dec 2011 18:09 - 06 Dec 2011 18:13 #5111 by intrepid
Its a really fun climb that is possible for any fit person with a sense of adventure. Some write-ups suggest the use of ropes on the lower parts, and while this should be headed, I have never used them on the peak and I think anyone that is competent with scrambling and can handle a little exposure will get away without using them too.

I have hot-linked the image below from the Peak High site on this page:
peakhigh.co.za/mountaineering/drakensberg-mountaineering/

This image is hidden for guests.



(interesting the note that this topo indicates the "new route" described above)

The labels are a bit small, but the bottom one is pointing to the sections where rope might be needed, and the middle one is pointing to where there is a chain ladder. The ladder can be bypassed by doing a C+/D grade scramble next to it. I do have GPS data for the route but was intending to recapture the route more accurately next time I go up there. It won't help you much working your way through the lower bands anyway.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Last edit: 06 Dec 2011 18:13 by intrepid.

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07 Dec 2011 06:55 #5119 by renebur
Thanks Intrepid this is great.We will be going there beginning of january.Will see how high we will get.I think even with out summit this will be a great hike.Thanks again

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07 Dec 2011 08:40 #5121 by Blaker
We summitted Cathedral on Saturday (3Dec). The weather wasn't great and visibility was very low. 2 other groups chose to turn around at the top of the gulley before the scramble sections but because we had a guide we pressed on. It was pretty tricky with the rock faces wet and we needed ropes on the way down on the bottom section of the scramble. A fantastic hike although if you're not so keen on heights can be a little scary near the top!! Nothing a bit of peer pressure can't sort out!! Pity we didn't get to see the views from the summit due to thick mist, but there's always next time!!

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