Cathedral summit from Cathedral Peak Hotel
Well, in October we happened to be sitting at the base of the gully about to go up (and then out to the right on the ledges) when Moses, the guide from the hotel, told us they have opened a new and improved route up the peak, directly up the slabs on the NE face. So we followed him and his client, resulting in a route I hope I never repeat in the ‘Berg again. It was very exposed, particularly for some novices with us. In my opinion the old ledges are still a much safer route onto and off the peak, particularly when wet.
Some members of our group followed the guide back down the slabby route. The hotel has placed a few strategic bolts above the scary bits which apparently helped enormously, along with a short piece of rope. It’s something I don’t intend to try, even with the rope, when there is a safe alternative.
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But by the sound of things, the "old" route is still fine?Apparently a recent, severe wash-away in Bugger Gully has made the approach described above quite tricky. An alternative approach is to start about 150 m below the top of the gully at a flat, grassy section situated just before the last, loose slope up to the top of the gully. Walk out along the grass ledge to the right and then take the line of least resistance up a series of slabs and rock bands until you locate the path described above.
I'm also not thrilled about the new bolts and rope.
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
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I have hot-linked the image below from the Peak High site on this page:
peakhigh.co.za/mountaineering/drakensberg-mountaineering/
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(interesting the note that this topo indicates the "new route" described above)
The labels are a bit small, but the bottom one is pointing to the sections where rope might be needed, and the middle one is pointing to where there is a chain ladder. The ladder can be bypassed by doing a C+/D grade scramble next to it. I do have GPS data for the route but was intending to recapture the route more accurately next time I go up there. It won't help you much working your way through the lower bands anyway.
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
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