Climbing Routes on Mitre

15 Mar 2012 09:41 #53238 by intrepid
Been trying to figure out where the climbing routes go on Mitre. For the standard route, the MCSA RD starts off:

The route starts on the west side of the huge north ridge of the Mitre. The trick is to find the right gully!

No kidding!

In the pic below I would say the "huge north ridge" is the left hand skyline of Mitre, which would mean the Standard Route is visible, or at least starts from this angle. My guess at where the approach gully is has been marked in red.


Follow this gully all the way up to where it seems to end in rock wall with two large cracks. The one on the left is a difficult chimney that goes nowhere. The one on the right leads up to a tiny knife-edge nek with a good peg. The Ntonjelane Needle is visible just beyond this nek.

I think I can see where the two cracks are. The dead-end one is the one on the gendarme and the correct one is the dark one, the knife-edge neck being indicated by the arrow. The Ntonjelana Needle could indeed be visible from there (it is the pinnacle in the background, to the left).

From there my impression is that the route flips over slightly to the other side, but more or less follows the direction of the left-hand skyline to the lower summit cone which is described in the RD.

Has anyone climbed the Mitre and can anyone confirm if I'm on the right track here?

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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19 Mar 2012 15:01 #53249 by brio
Replied by brio on topic Climbing Routes on Mitre
Hi. I have not done this. But by looking at the pic and reading the words, is the knife edge ridge to the right of the arrow? To me the arrow points to the crack that goes nowhere.
So at the top of the red line, move right. That looks more promising.

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20 Mar 2012 05:43 - 20 Mar 2012 05:44 #53252 by intrepid
Replied by intrepid on topic Climbing Routes on Mitre
Hi brio, my impression is that there is a knife-edge neck rather than ridge. This is what my arrow is pointing to. Shortly after the neck the Ntonjelana Needle becomes visible, thats a clue. From this angle that leaves 2 possible places, the other being the smaller notch and gendarme, to the right and slightly higher than the bigger one. In the possibility of the smaller notch being the correct neck, where would the left-hand chimney "that goes nowhere" be?\

The crack has to be ascended to reach the neck, and from there facing the Mitre the climb goes towards the left across an exposed section (thus my impression that the route flips over to the other side which is not visible in the picture).

The art of interpreting route guides continues... :cheer:

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Last edit: 20 Mar 2012 05:44 by intrepid.

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28 Mar 2012 07:10 #53333 by GiantMTB
Replied by GiantMTB on topic Climbing Routes on Mitre
Is this all the info we have of this climb?
I have searched endlessly to get more info but to no avail.
Would like to know more about what gear to take along! Slings? Nuts? Cams? Rope length? Would not want to haul a truck load of gear up if it is not necessary!

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28 Mar 2012 08:04 #53334 by tiska
Replied by tiska on topic Climbing Routes on Mitre

intrepid wrote: The art of interpreting route guides continues... :cheer:


I think I have complained before about the 'recipe' route guide approach taken in SA. "Take the obvious gully next to the cubby-hole" sort of thing. I think we could make substanstial progress if we were to slowly build a set of sketches and or photographs with the routes marked on them and then couple these with the 'recipe' descriptions. In other words, have the route marked by a line on a sketch or photo, but annotated with pitches that match to the text recipe.

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28 Mar 2012 08:20 #53335 by GiantMTB
Replied by GiantMTB on topic Climbing Routes on Mitre
This means that we will probably have to go out there and do the climb (without prior proper info) and report after even if it means taking more gear than is necessary.

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07 Apr 2012 19:44 - 11 Apr 2012 19:16 #53460 by GiantMTB
Replied by GiantMTB on topic Climbing Routes on Mitre
So, safely back @ home from the berg. Did the Bell traverse from Cathedral Peak to Twins and on the way climbed the MITRE. You have the right gully but the arrow must be to the right, juat as brio said.
In the picture is the route we took in yellow and once there, there is only one way. Hope this helps!

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Last edit: 11 Apr 2012 19:16 by GiantMTB.

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08 Apr 2012 17:38 #53462 by Jana
Replied by Jana on topic Climbing Routes on Mitre
Mitre: awesome climb with good exposure! Some slings and/or accessory cord as well as a D-shackle (to be left on the mountain); 60 m rope and an abseil device will allow for quicker descent... Definitely worth summiting!!!

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10 Apr 2012 06:58 #53465 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Climbing Routes on Mitre
If you have photos, please post them :)

The weather looked perfect this last weekend

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11 Apr 2012 19:15 - 11 Apr 2012 19:19 #53510 by GiantMTB
Replied by GiantMTB on topic Climbing Routes on Mitre
Here I have some photos of our trip up to the MITRE summit. B)

Ntonjelana Needle vissable from knife edge


MITRE's 2 summit cones


TWINS looking down from MITRE summit

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Last edit: 11 Apr 2012 19:19 by GiantMTB.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Stijn, ghaznavid, brio, tonymarshall

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