Climbing Routes on Mitre
No kidding!The route starts on the west side of the huge north ridge of the Mitre. The trick is to find the right gully!
In the pic below I would say the "huge north ridge" is the left hand skyline of Mitre, which would mean the Standard Route is visible, or at least starts from this angle. My guess at where the approach gully is has been marked in red.
I think I can see where the two cracks are. The dead-end one is the one on the gendarme and the correct one is the dark one, the knife-edge neck being indicated by the arrow. The Ntonjelana Needle could indeed be visible from there (it is the pinnacle in the background, to the left).Follow this gully all the way up to where it seems to end in rock wall with two large cracks. The one on the left is a difficult chimney that goes nowhere. The one on the right leads up to a tiny knife-edge nek with a good peg. The Ntonjelane Needle is visible just beyond this nek.
From there my impression is that the route flips over slightly to the other side, but more or less follows the direction of the left-hand skyline to the lower summit cone which is described in the RD.
Has anyone climbed the Mitre and can anyone confirm if I'm on the right track here?
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
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So at the top of the red line, move right. That looks more promising.
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The crack has to be ascended to reach the neck, and from there facing the Mitre the climb goes towards the left across an exposed section (thus my impression that the route flips over to the other side which is not visible in the picture).
The art of interpreting route guides continues...
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
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I have searched endlessly to get more info but to no avail.
Would like to know more about what gear to take along! Slings? Nuts? Cams? Rope length? Would not want to haul a truck load of gear up if it is not necessary!
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intrepid wrote: The art of interpreting route guides continues...
I think I have complained before about the 'recipe' route guide approach taken in SA. "Take the obvious gully next to the cubby-hole" sort of thing. I think we could make substanstial progress if we were to slowly build a set of sketches and or photographs with the routes marked on them and then couple these with the 'recipe' descriptions. In other words, have the route marked by a line on a sketch or photo, but annotated with pitches that match to the text recipe.
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In the picture is the route we took in yellow and once there, there is only one way. Hope this helps!
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The weather looked perfect this last weekend
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Ntonjelana Needle vissable from knife edge
MITRE's 2 summit cones
TWINS looking down from MITRE summit
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