The Turret and Amphlett
TURRET (C+)
Approach as for Amphlett and then scramble across to the nek between Amphlett and Turret. Walk around the base of the Turret to the west side. Here a cleft in the west face gives surprisingly easy access to the summit. Various single pitch routes have been opened on the other faces.
Can you seriously climb the Turret without needing ropes?
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Two pitches of C grade climbing with the odd D move on good rock are involved. The faint of heart may find the security of a rope desirable.
Anyone out there done the Amphlett? Is it that easy/safe?
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This first pic from below is Amphlett showing the SE approach ridge on the right.
This is Amphlett on right of pic from Turret, with Gatberg on the left of pic - no, its not me in the pic, it's Gosia, and she climbs way harder than I do!
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Should I be concerned that an experienced rock climber is wearing a harness on a peak I am hoping to do without ropes
Is it my imagination or am I seeing air through the base of Amphlett - even if I don't climb the peak itself, that looks really worth checking out
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The pic was taken into the sun - the 'air' is from the lens. I promise this is Amphlett not Gatberg!
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We climbed Amphlett with some very basic gear since you never really know what you are getting yourself into until you've done it. It is a very straightforward climb, and we down-climbed it (no abseiling). We did place gear on the way up simply cause we had it. I will not climb it with gear again, provided I am with people who are competent and confident enough with the scramble. It helps when you've done it before, it seems easy afterwards.
The following pic shows the knife-ride leading to the summit. Note that the depth of the view has been lost (ie the distance between me and the camera is longer than it appears). That is the crux move in action. The ridge is exposed though other climbs are considerably worse.
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
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intrepid wrote: I've renamed the topic to include Amphlett, since the two peaks can be conveniently discussed and climbed together (also cause ghaz can't stick to the topic
).
I don't stray from topic that regularly. Btw did anyone catch the rugby this weekend
That gives much more perspective - it looked intimidating until I read your comment about the scale and subsequently noticed how thick your rope looks and how massive that quickdraw looks.
Is the last bit to the top the most exposed part, or is part of the final approach along the knife edge also fairly exposed? Looks like there are tons of hand and foot holds.
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(photos taken from the top of Sterkhorn)
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