The Turret and Amphlett

13 Aug 2012 20:40 #54947 by ghaznavid
From the MCSA website:

TURRET (C+)

Approach as for Amphlett and then scramble across to the nek between Amphlett and Turret. Walk around the base of the Turret to the west side. Here a cleft in the west face gives surprisingly easy access to the summit. Various single pitch routes have been opened on the other faces.


Can you seriously climb the Turret without needing ropes?

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24 Aug 2012 18:43 #55051 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic The Turret and Amphlett

Two pitches of C grade climbing with the odd D move on good rock are involved. The faint of heart may find the security of a rope desirable.


Anyone out there done the Amphlett? Is it that easy/safe?

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26 Aug 2012 17:41 #55053 by RobD
Replied by RobD on topic The Turret and Amphlett
Turret is a stunning little climb! There is this little cleft on the Cathedral side that runs all the way to the top on rock steps. You don't need a rope at all but it would be useful for an easier descent. There is a good belay/abseil station at the top.
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26 Aug 2012 17:55 #55054 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic The Turret and Amphlett
Do you have any photos by any chance? I find them to be helpful in hike planning :)

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26 Aug 2012 19:27 #55056 by RobD
Replied by RobD on topic The Turret and Amphlett
Amphlett is an exposed scramble so a rope might give comfort. It's a really short climb.



This first pic from below is Amphlett showing the SE approach ridge on the right.




This is Amphlett on right of pic from Turret, with Gatberg on the left of pic - no, its not me in the pic, it's Gosia, and she climbs way harder than I do!

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26 Aug 2012 19:40 #55057 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic The Turret and Amphlett
Thanks for the pics. This is definitely a ridge I need to explore.

Should I be concerned that an experienced rock climber is wearing a harness on a peak I am hoping to do without ropes :laugh:

Is it my imagination or am I seeing air through the base of Amphlett - even if I don't climb the peak itself, that looks really worth checking out :)

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26 Aug 2012 20:07 #55060 by RobD
Replied by RobD on topic The Turret and Amphlett
Nah - no cause for concern. We only wear harnesses to look cool.

The pic was taken into the sun - the 'air' is from the lens. I promise this is Amphlett not Gatberg!

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27 Aug 2012 09:36 #55063 by intrepid
I've renamed the topic to include Amphlett, since the two peaks can be conveniently discussed and climbed together (also cause ghaz can't stick to the topic :P ).

We climbed Amphlett with some very basic gear since you never really know what you are getting yourself into until you've done it. It is a very straightforward climb, and we down-climbed it (no abseiling). We did place gear on the way up simply cause we had it. I will not climb it with gear again, provided I am with people who are competent and confident enough with the scramble. It helps when you've done it before, it seems easy afterwards.

The following pic shows the knife-ride leading to the summit. Note that the depth of the view has been lost (ie the distance between me and the camera is longer than it appears). That is the crux move in action. The ridge is exposed though other climbs are considerably worse.


Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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27 Aug 2012 10:12 #55064 by ghaznavid

intrepid wrote: I've renamed the topic to include Amphlett, since the two peaks can be conveniently discussed and climbed together (also cause ghaz can't stick to the topic :P ).


I don't stray from topic that regularly. Btw did anyone catch the rugby this weekend :laugh:

That gives much more perspective - it looked intimidating until I read your comment about the scale and subsequently noticed how thick your rope looks and how massive that quickdraw looks.

Is the last bit to the top the most exposed part, or is part of the final approach along the knife edge also fairly exposed? Looks like there are tons of hand and foot holds.

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04 Nov 2013 17:50 - 04 Nov 2013 17:56 #58959 by ghaznavid
Looks like I'll be doing these over the weekend at the end of the month. Just checking I have the routes right:




(photos taken from the top of Sterkhorn)

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Last edit: 04 Nov 2013 17:56 by ghaznavid.

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