Grading & severity of Berg climbing

Not the thread I was trying to post this question on, but I can't find the thread on climbing gear (I know I did start 1 about a year ago)...

Anyway, @all the Berg climbers out there:

What pro do you normally carry? What else do you also carry?

The reason I ask is that my trad rack is up to 3kg with BD wired hex sizes 6-11 (that 11 is the size of my fist!), BD nuts 3-13, 11 normal draws and 3 extender draws with 60cm slings. I also have 3 120cm slings (mostly for setting up anchors at the top before I belay the others).

As for other stuff - a helmet, belay device, harness, shoes and locking biner is all the other gear one would need, right?

Ghaz - it depends on the route you want to do. We used to get up the standard route of the Bell using 3 slings, each with 2 benas. That just by clipping the existing pegs. We climbed Mponj once with just a few wires (no friends).

Generally speaking, big nuts are used more often (or with more faith given the Berg rock) than small nuts. And rope drag normally prevents you from doing very long pitches where you'd run out of gear on a standard rack. People tend to have favourite bits of gear that are used more often, partly because you get to know the match between the gear and the rock placement well for that often used gear.

Ok - so more specifically the routes I want to start with:
- Sentinel standard route
- Outer Horn scramble route (not sure if you would use pro on the way up?)
- Inner Horn Standard Route

My size 10 hex has been placed on almost every route I have ever done (World's View and Monteseel have plenty of big cracks for it). Only got my size 11 today, not sure if it will replace my 10 as my favourite piece though.

mnt_tiska wrote: Ghaz, your comments on 'Fallout' at Monties offer the first explanation I have come across in a few decades as to why I found that 20 to be a real dog.

If you're interested I just uploaded the video Hobbit took of Bugs climbing Fallout earlier this year.