Does anyone know of any sports climbs in the BERG
01 Feb 2014 08:14 #59584
by Cazym
that have already been bolted in? And graded?
Cazym
Does anyone know of any sports climbs in the BERG was created by Cazym
that have already been bolted in? And graded? Cazym
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
02 Feb 2014 10:42 - 02 Feb 2014 10:45 #59592
by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Does anyone know of any sports climbs in the BERG
The Berg is strictly trad, unless certain conditions are met - including prior permission and no possibility of doing the route without bolts. There is a thread about this somewhere - I think under the thread about the old Via Ferrata.
I think there are only 2 full sport routes:
- Paradigm Shift (22) on the Sentinel (see www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/sentinel.htm)
- Not So Auto (26) on Monk's Cowl (www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/monks_cowl.htm)
There is also the new route "Jack's Beanstalk" - F3 I think - near Sleeping Beauty Cave. It is mixed trad and sport. Apparently it is very lead out, often more than 5m.
Any particular reason you aren't looking for trad lines? The Berg rock is often relatively poor quality, but the routes are usually easy. There are occasional G and H (17-23) graded routes, but most are D-F (7-16).
I think there are only 2 full sport routes:
- Paradigm Shift (22) on the Sentinel (see www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/sentinel.htm)
- Not So Auto (26) on Monk's Cowl (www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/monks_cowl.htm)
There is also the new route "Jack's Beanstalk" - F3 I think - near Sleeping Beauty Cave. It is mixed trad and sport. Apparently it is very lead out, often more than 5m.
Any particular reason you aren't looking for trad lines? The Berg rock is often relatively poor quality, but the routes are usually easy. There are occasional G and H (17-23) graded routes, but most are D-F (7-16).
Last edit: 02 Feb 2014 10:45 by ghaznavid.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
02 Feb 2014 21:06 #59594
by Cazym
Cazym
Replied by Cazym on topic Does anyone know of any sports climbs in the BERG
Hey thanks Ghaznvid. I have never done any trad, new to the sport will definitely look at getting some experience there. Have always wanted to rock climbing the berg. Much appreciated!!
Cazym
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
02 Feb 2014 21:50 #59595
by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Does anyone know of any sports climbs in the BERG
If you've just started - Not So Auto and Paradigm Shift are definitely not for you! I think Not So Auto has had something like 3 ascents since it was bolted.
I haven't done anything above grade C in the Berg, aside from the occasional awkward move up a chockstone on a pass - or on the way to the top of a khulu - but it seems everyone starts with Sentinel Standard Route. Its 2 pitches, one D and one C - they are far apart which makes life easier. I have planned to do this route for a while now, but haven't managed to get a group together for it.
I haven't done anything above grade C in the Berg, aside from the occasional awkward move up a chockstone on a pass - or on the way to the top of a khulu - but it seems everyone starts with Sentinel Standard Route. Its 2 pitches, one D and one C - they are far apart which makes life easier. I have planned to do this route for a while now, but haven't managed to get a group together for it.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Cazym
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
03 Feb 2014 09:35 - 03 Feb 2014 10:32 #59599
by intrepid
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Replied by intrepid on topic Does anyone know of any sports climbs in the BERG
Welcome to this forum Cazym.
The only documented sport route in the Berg is Paradigm Shift. It is a sustained climb that should only be attempted if you are comfortably climbing several grades higher than the route's grade. Don't think that if you can lead a 22 elsewhere, that it means you can climb the route. In addition, the bolts are apparently often placed after crux moves, so you need to be comfortable with leading some bold moves, on grade 22, on Berg rock, without first clipping in before you do the hard moves. I have not done it myself, but this information comes from someone who has done the route more than once.
Note that Not So Auto is a mixed route, not a sport route, and is a very serious climb that should only be attempted if you are climbing very high grades on trad already, and have had prior Berg climbing experience.
The only documented sport route in the Berg is Paradigm Shift. It is a sustained climb that should only be attempted if you are comfortably climbing several grades higher than the route's grade. Don't think that if you can lead a 22 elsewhere, that it means you can climb the route. In addition, the bolts are apparently often placed after crux moves, so you need to be comfortable with leading some bold moves, on grade 22, on Berg rock, without first clipping in before you do the hard moves. I have not done it myself, but this information comes from someone who has done the route more than once.
Note that Not So Auto is a mixed route, not a sport route, and is a very serious climb that should only be attempted if you are climbing very high grades on trad already, and have had prior Berg climbing experience.
Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.
Last edit: 03 Feb 2014 10:32 by intrepid.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Cazym
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
