Sentinel - Blood on the Rocks

Hey guys

Just wanted to put this out there.

Thanks to Andrew Porter for supplying this information.It seems as though the route " Blood on the Rocks" Sentinel, may have been done in part a few years before myself and Robert Dugtig thought we had opened it! I am still unsure as to why the RD was never submitted, and just makes one think about how many other routes are potentially out there, that are not known about.

Anyways, I have included my RD for "Blood on the Rocks" here, and the one for "Pro's a Bitch, then you Die" (!)- sounds enthralling! Hopefully, someone out there has done the original, and the "new" one and can shed some light on where they differ, or are the same. From my memory, there is definitely some ground that is shared, but does not seem completely the same.

If nothing comes of it, then hopefully the opening party of "Pro's a..." can gain some recognition for what seems like a poo your pants route!

"BLOOD ON THE ROCKS" (F2/15 A2)

Route ascends the long flake that is flanked by patches of grass on either side. Access the highest grassy knoll on the west north west face of sentinel, where the 'thatcher route' begins. From this knoll, scramble down and to your left, to a broken corner/recess. Start from a point 4m right of this corner.

1.15m(F1/12) Start up a shallow groove with a good knife blade taking crack running through it, aiming for an underclinging crack above you. Pull through this and step into the grassy corner on your left. Ascend to some loose blocks and out left onto the face which takes you to a grassy ledge above, and belay here.

2.35m?(F2/15 A2) Move about 5m right from stance along easy ledge then up diagonally right through small cubbyhole to gain the black corner system with roofs above you(F2/15). from here aid up on pretty solid placements, with occasional peg, following the crack system to the left going underneath the small roofs. Once through the roofs follow crack straight up and climb through a recess to a small ledge on left side of large flake. From here, step down to awesome foot holds and traverse right to other side of flake and an excellent belay stance from the block above you- piton in crack on left.

3.40m(F2/14 A1) Ascend this right hand side of flake with a few aided moves around the grassy sections. Once on top of the flake, go straight up passing a small overhanging block. From top of block, step left and climb around corner (7m). Around the corner set up a semi-hanging belay from the cracks around you. A piton will be seen hanging out of the crack above you- dont use it!

4.27m(F2/14 A1) Climb the corner above, past some loose flakes under the roof above. Get under this roof and aid out to your left, aiding up the recess just past the roof as you go. Gain the small cubbyhole, and then climb up to the smaller one above. There is a scarcity of protection here. From cubbyhole walk to your right, and belay under some overhangs with a good crack in it.

5.30m Step down to the grassy ledge and scramble along it till you get to a blackened corner/recess, and set up a belay here. This is now the start of the fourth pitch of "thatchers route". Follow this pitch and the fifth to gain the big grass ledge and follow standard route to top.

Comments: We strongly believe more direct lines could go to the left of the cubbyholes on pitch 4, and from the belay at the end of pitch four. Also believe that this route could be freed( probably relatively easily!)

Robert Dugtig and Justin Nixon(09/07/2006)

Thanks for sharing

jackson wrote: the one for "Pro's a Bitch, then you Die" (!)- sounds enthralling!

Wow - that may be the most 90's named route in climbing history here's a meme to mark the occasion:

intrepid wrote: Systematic documentation of Berg RDs has lost a bit of impetus.

A good repository of route information is available at kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides.
There is a links somewhere there explaining how to submit RD's for inclusion. I have forwarded this link onto Gavin Peckham who used to do it.

Neil Margetts is leading an MCSA meet in early March if I recall correctly. Maybe a good time to head up the cliffs to see the common sections and or differences between the climbs. Anyone keen to join an adventure?