Eastern Injasuti Triplet
29 Mar 2016 17:53 - 29 Mar 2016 17:55 #67523
by AndrewP
Eastern Injasuti Triplet was created by AndrewP
On Sunday, Neil and I climbed the standard route of the Eastern Injasuti Triplet.
The approach from the escarpment starts out easily. From a point in line with the eastern edge of the Middle Triplet, you will find a grassy ramp. Follow this, heading towards the Western Triplet, until you are directly above the neck to the Middle Triplet. From here, move further around the corner (you can now see Western Triplet clearly, and then scramble easily down to the neck.
Follow the gully down, towards the Eastern Triplet. At one point, you encounter a 5m abseil. The rock in the gully above this point is very loose, so it is rather hard to find a suitable point to rig the abseil. We got the rope stuck, and when Neil yanked hard, a fist sized rock flew down with the end of the rope, nearly taking him out. Carry on down the gully, loosing more height than you would like, and taking care not to dislodge any of the loose rocks.
Eventually you can traverse left on grassy slopes. The first part of the scramble is exposed and on loose stuff, so we roped up. We then went off route, and instead of scrambling up the outside of the gendarme, we took a mossy chimney up the inside. It went at an old school grade D, so we could not complain.
Neil enjoying the moss.
Neil finally exits the chimney, with a really wide move.
The climbing above the gendarme is fun and on good rock. We enjoyed it. The crux move entails one of those 'berg corner systems that has no holds and cannot be chimneyed or stemmed, but somehow your body sticks to the rock and you can move up.
We took the "new" final pitch that avoids a pretty desperate looking squeeze chimney in favour of a conventional and wider chimney that even has some good gear.
It was still windy on top so Neil needed a few goes to get his yoga pose right.
We found a summit book containing 2 entries, the most recent of them being the new route by Roland and Ian in 1998 "Between a rock and a hard place". As there was no pencil or pen, that is not a conclusive guide, by the tat we encountered was ancient, so it must be the first ascent of the peak in many years.
The obligatory summit photo
We had an excellent angle to view the original route up Western Triplet. The RD suggests the rock is really bad, even by berg standards, so it was interesting to see what was up. The route takes the first grassy line right of the arête, and looks disgusting.
The approach from the escarpment starts out easily. From a point in line with the eastern edge of the Middle Triplet, you will find a grassy ramp. Follow this, heading towards the Western Triplet, until you are directly above the neck to the Middle Triplet. From here, move further around the corner (you can now see Western Triplet clearly, and then scramble easily down to the neck.
Follow the gully down, towards the Eastern Triplet. At one point, you encounter a 5m abseil. The rock in the gully above this point is very loose, so it is rather hard to find a suitable point to rig the abseil. We got the rope stuck, and when Neil yanked hard, a fist sized rock flew down with the end of the rope, nearly taking him out. Carry on down the gully, loosing more height than you would like, and taking care not to dislodge any of the loose rocks.
Eventually you can traverse left on grassy slopes. The first part of the scramble is exposed and on loose stuff, so we roped up. We then went off route, and instead of scrambling up the outside of the gendarme, we took a mossy chimney up the inside. It went at an old school grade D, so we could not complain.
Neil enjoying the moss.
Neil finally exits the chimney, with a really wide move.
The climbing above the gendarme is fun and on good rock. We enjoyed it. The crux move entails one of those 'berg corner systems that has no holds and cannot be chimneyed or stemmed, but somehow your body sticks to the rock and you can move up.
We took the "new" final pitch that avoids a pretty desperate looking squeeze chimney in favour of a conventional and wider chimney that even has some good gear.
It was still windy on top so Neil needed a few goes to get his yoga pose right.
We found a summit book containing 2 entries, the most recent of them being the new route by Roland and Ian in 1998 "Between a rock and a hard place". As there was no pencil or pen, that is not a conclusive guide, by the tat we encountered was ancient, so it must be the first ascent of the peak in many years.
The obligatory summit photo
We had an excellent angle to view the original route up Western Triplet. The RD suggests the rock is really bad, even by berg standards, so it was interesting to see what was up. The route takes the first grassy line right of the arête, and looks disgusting.
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Last edit: 29 Mar 2016 17:55 by AndrewP.
The following user(s) said Thank You: elinda, Stijn, ghaznavid, Smurfatefrog, tonymarshall, Viking, Richard Hunt, Macc, biomech
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