South Saddle Peak
05 Dec 2016 22:45 #70330
by AndrewP
South Saddle Peak was created by AndrewP
This peak probably gets very few ascents for the simple reason that there is a lot of effort for your reward. Most of this effort is prussicing back up the ropes you used to abseil into the neck separating the peak from the escarpment.
Start on the escarpment by getting to the top of the hill that overlooks the saddle between Saddle South Peak and the escarpment. Scramble down the first rock band (or walk left, looking outwards to find a way to bypass it). You can now find a few good options for gear placements to tie off the rope for the abseil. We (Intrepid and I) used a horizontal slot that takes cams size 1 – 4.
Abseil down onto the ledge next to the small pinnacle. It is probably best to tie your rope into the boulders on this ledge (long slings or tat) so that the rope above you is now slack for the next abseil (and hence prussic back out).
Abseil down to the neck. We used about 50m of our 60m rope to get here. You can top rope your way back out, but a lack of decent gear means lead climbing out is not a great option.
There is a good 0.75 cam placement for a belay at the neck, which we backed up with a peg (since removed). In dry weather, you may feel comfortable walking out on the narrow grass ledge that runs to your left (looking away from the escarpment). We had another rope (30m is enough) and used it.
From here, a walk up a grass ramp / gully takes you to the top. I assume there is a good view from the top, but cannot vouch for it
Walk back down to the end of the traverse, reverse that and prussic your way back to the escarpment. Feel free to search for the Go-pro you dropped while your buddy is doing the first prussic
Start on the escarpment by getting to the top of the hill that overlooks the saddle between Saddle South Peak and the escarpment. Scramble down the first rock band (or walk left, looking outwards to find a way to bypass it). You can now find a few good options for gear placements to tie off the rope for the abseil. We (Intrepid and I) used a horizontal slot that takes cams size 1 – 4.
Abseil down onto the ledge next to the small pinnacle. It is probably best to tie your rope into the boulders on this ledge (long slings or tat) so that the rope above you is now slack for the next abseil (and hence prussic back out).
Abseil down to the neck. We used about 50m of our 60m rope to get here. You can top rope your way back out, but a lack of decent gear means lead climbing out is not a great option.
There is a good 0.75 cam placement for a belay at the neck, which we backed up with a peg (since removed). In dry weather, you may feel comfortable walking out on the narrow grass ledge that runs to your left (looking away from the escarpment). We had another rope (30m is enough) and used it.
From here, a walk up a grass ramp / gully takes you to the top. I assume there is a good view from the top, but cannot vouch for it
Walk back down to the end of the traverse, reverse that and prussic your way back to the escarpment. Feel free to search for the Go-pro you dropped while your buddy is doing the first prussic
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