Mlambonja Coulior

01 Oct 2011 06:18 #4222 by ghaznavid
Mlambonja Coulior was created by ghaznavid
In the interests of remaining distracted from my exams, I have been looking at a potential pass at Garden Castle. For arguement sake, lets call it Newman Pass for the moment. Unfortunately on both Google Earth and in my photos its always in the shade, but based on what the summit looks like on GE, it looks climable.

Has anyone ever checked this gully out?




Getting to the top is nothing, the way you do it is everything – Royal Robins

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01 Oct 2011 11:08 #4224 by intrepid
Replied by intrepid on topic Mlambonja Coulior
That is the Mlambonja Coulior, which is a good winter route, as it offers a short bit of rock and ice climbing at the bottom but then becomes a good snow gully. www.mcsa.org.za/kzn/ice/BergWinterRoutes.html
Conditions were perfect this year and it saw some ascents. The pics below are hot-linked from Raubenheimer's peakhigh.co.za blog:

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Not sure what it is like outside of the winter, was wondering myself if it can be scrambled, but you'd still have a rock pitch at the bottom.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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01 Oct 2011 16:44 #4225 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Mlambonja Coulior
Interesting. I'm sure you can scramble around the lower bit of rock climbing, but any way, if it doesn't get to the top (without ropes), its not much use to me... But if that route is used, maybe one of the caves along the way may actually serve some purpose.

I must go and give Gypateus Pass a shot some time, that one should be doable, its just a mission trying to find a person who is prepared to try an untried route where you may reach 3000m and have to turn back without reaching the summit...

Getting to the top is nothing, the way you do it is everything – Royal Robins

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04 Oct 2011 09:02 #4243 by splatacat
Replied by splatacat on topic Mlambonja Coulior
I would try untried routes, just hope my fitness level is up to it.
Perhaps this summer we can give it a go.

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04 Oct 2011 10:14 #4244 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Mlambonja Coulior
Sounds good Splatacat, we will have to plan when to do it a bit in advance, my November, December and January are fairly booked up...

Getting to the top is nothing, the way you do it is everything – Royal Robins

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27 Mar 2014 18:53 - 27 Mar 2014 19:03 #60057 by Pwner
Replied by Pwner on topic Mlambonja Coulior
Hi All

A friend and I are looking at doing some "alpine style" ( crampons + walking axe) trekking this winter in the Berg.

From looking around on the net I have found 2 options:
Mashai Pass
Mlambonja Coulior

Can anyone advise the what is the climbing section like at the bottom of Mlambonja Coulior. Do we need a to take a trad rack and ice pro along ? Or can it be done as a scramble ?

The RD on MCSA says: Take a small selection of rock gear for the mixed pitch

Any advise from anyone who has done these passes will be greatly appreciated.
Last edit: 27 Mar 2014 19:03 by Pwner.

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27 Mar 2014 21:31 #60059 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Mlambonja Coulior
I personally haven't done the coulior - or for that matter, any form of ice climbing at all - but I have done Mashai Pass a few times, including in winter. You aren't going to need crampons and a walking axe on Mashai Pass unless there has just been a large snow dump.

Getting to the top is nothing, the way you do it is everything – Royal Robins

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27 Mar 2014 22:03 #60060 by Pwner
Replied by Pwner on topic Mlambonja Coulior
Thanks Ghaz

Our intention would be to give it a bash after there has been a decent snowfall. But from the reports i have read it still might be overkill for Mashai. I will see if i can find anymore info on Mlambonja if not we will go have a look when we get there.

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28 Mar 2014 07:59 #60061 by intrepid
Replied by intrepid on topic Mlambonja Coulior
I've often wondered about the coulior myself, and almost tried it this last January if it were not for shortage of time on that particular trip. The best person to ask about it, especially the winter conditions, would be Gavin Raubenheimer: peakhigh.co.za/

Apparently the Devil's Knuckles also provide some good alpine hiking.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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28 Mar 2014 09:55 - 28 Mar 2014 11:50 #60066 by Selous
Replied by Selous on topic Mlambonja Coulior
Rhino Pass (Just North of Mashai) might be a better option in winter. I am not sure wich gully I looked down (Left or right) from the top but it looked like a good one to do with crampons and ice axes. Gavin from Peak High and MCSA Rescue fame takes clients up that route I think
Regards
Selous
Last edit: 28 Mar 2014 11:50 by Selous. Reason: More info needed

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