Sentinel Car Park to Cathedral Peak - Northern Berg Escarpment Traverse

Hi Quentin, your trip sounds amazing.

If I look at that GPS track you will be sleeping at:
Night 1) Ifidi Cave
Night 2) Rwanqa Cave / Fangs cave / Rat hole cave
Night 3) Mponjwane Cave / Nguza Cave
Night 4) Twins Cave
Night 5) Cathedral Peak hotel

You must please write a quick trip report when you get back about all the caves and where you slept.
That sounds like a great trip for my next long weekend!

Hi Quentin,

Just another backing for Twins Cave. Have slept in it on 3 occasions since November last year and have never had any problems.

It's an awesome cave.

Enjoy!!!

Here is a short trip report of my northern berg traverse / mini traverse:

Day 1, Monday 25 April 2016:

I started hiking at 09h20 from Sentinel Car Park along with 6 foreign day hikers. We all made it to the top of the Tugela Falls via the chain ladders, without incident (no Basotho’s waiting for us at the top of the chain ladders). There I met two SA men (both about 45 years of age) planning on spending the night somewhere on top of the Amphitheatre, before heading down the next day. They then informed me of the horrible incident of the day before (involving Jody Main-Baillie, Cameron McLean and Dave Moldenhauer), but they did not know all the details and weren’t sure where the incident took place. So I decided to proceed with my traverse. After exchanging some safety tips, I set off to complete my first days hike about 7km later, finding a camping spot overlooking Ifidi Rock (the exact spot marked on the Northern_Berg_Traverse_Mike_Atkinson GPS track I downloaded off this forum).

Day 2, Tuesday 26 April 2016:

There were mist and a bit of rain predicted for today, and when I got up at 06h00 there were already a lot of clouds just below the escarpment edge. Only at about 10h00 the mist started blowing over the escarpment and slowly started to engulf me completely. Although the mist made navigation very difficult and my progress very slow, I was glad that it kept my presence hidden throughout the day, as I passed downwind from two Basotho shepherds and their sheep on two separate occasions (I could hear the them whistling to their sheep, as well as the sheep moving around by the sound of their bells). Unfortunately it also meant that I missed out on all the beautiful scenery /views this day had to offer. By 16h00 I pitched my tent again at the exact same spot that Mike Atkinson’s GPS track suggested. It started raining and the mist only lifted at about 07h00 the next morning.

Day 3, Wednesday 27 April 2016:

I only started hiking around 09h00 this morning. It was a beautiful day with a lot of awesome views from the escarpment. I hiked along the mountain ridgelines for the most of the day, and shared these views with several vultures, crows and hawks. I saw a yellow tailed mongoose and several bushbuck early in the afternoon, all of which we’re terrified to see me and ran off swiftly. So it became apparent that it’s not only us hikers who try to avoid the Basotho’s. I also passed several kraals on this day, none of which were occupied though. I arrived at my intended camping spot at 15h00, and decided to wait for sunset before pitching my tent, even though I didn’t see/hear anyone today.

Day 4, Thursday 28 April 2016:

Today was another beautiful day, with a lot of amazing scenery. By now I started craving real food and began making a mental list of all the things I would like to eat when I get back home . Descending my last valley in Lesotho before reaching the top of Mlambonja pass, I noticed a Basotho shepherd, his dog and flock of sheep crossing the river. I made sure my descend goes unnoticed, but eventually I had to cross his path in order to find the top of Mlambonja pass. As soon as he saw me on the opposite side of the river, he chased his sheep back across and came to collect his toll fee... two energy bars. After waving goodbye we went our separate ways, and by about 16h00 I reached Twins cave, where I settled in for the night. Apart from day 1, I haven’t met any other hikers along my way, and hoped that another hiking party might join me in the cave tonight, but I only had the wind as company…

Day 5, Friday 29 April 2016:
From about 18h30 the night before, the wind picked up a lot and I got no more than 2 hours of sleep throughout the night. This morning the wind was even stronger, and I was seriously considering spending another night in the cave. By 07h15 I decided to try and get back through the pass to continue down Mlambonja pass. After several attempts, moving between rocks and hiding behind them, I managed to cross over to Mlambonja again. Descending the steep slopes with all the loose rocks in the path and the strong winds constantly changing direction, proved to be a huge challenge for me, but I somehow managed to get down unscathed (descending mostly on all fours). Making slow progress in these conditions, I only reached Cathedral Peak Hotel at 15h20… But what a journey!!

Reaching the hotel, a lady approached me asking if I saw another hiking party of 5 people descending today, as her husband is part of this group. They also started from Sentinel Car Park on Monday and are suppose to finish today. She assured me that their hike leader is very experienced, and has done the northern traverse several times. I told her that I didn’t see any other hikers since day one, but that the wind up top is very bad, and they might have decided to delay their descent. I sincerely hope that they all made it down safely that day, or the next.

I am thinking of doing this on the last long weekend of April:

Two questions:

1) Is the amphitheatre open again? Have there been anymore incidences since the big one last year?
2) How much heavy clothing would you take? What is the average temperature during the day and night? What sleeping bag rating would you go for?

timoross wrote: I am thinking of doing this on the last long weekend of April:

Two questions:

1) Is the amphitheatre open again? Have there been anymore incidences since the big one last year?
2) How much heavy clothing would you take? What is the average temperature during the day and night? What sleeping bag rating would you go for?

The Amphitheatre wasn't really closed but we are advised not to overnight there. Certainly you wouldn't be able to pitch a tent anywhere in the area (Amphitheatre, Ifidi, Icidi etc) without being seen by the local herders. Staying in caves, especially those off the top of the escarpment like Fangs Cave, would be a better bet.

I would expect the temperatures to be around 3 to 6 degrees at sunrise and around 12 to 15 degrees in the mid afternoon assuming the weather was settled. If a mid latitude system rolls through, then the max temp could stay as low as 5 or 6 degrees. The weather forecast up to 4 days ahead should be decent.

Sentinel to Fangs is quite a far distance for a single day. Is Northern berg Traverse not being done at the moment? How is the safety from Mnweni onwards?

As far as clothing goes:
Buffs and beanie/s
Thermal base layer
Mid layer
Fleece or light insulated jacket
Down or synthetic puffer jacket
Shell, or rain jacket
Thermal pants
Technical/hiking pants
Rain pants

Sleeping bag -5* to -8*, Ice breaker or similar

timoross wrote: Sentinel to Fangs is quite a far distance for a single day. Is Northern berg Traverse not being done at the moment? How is the safety from Mnweni onwards?

We stayed 3 nights in the Ifidi area in early Jan 2017 without anything bad happening. But its impossible to slip through unnoticed. We had some nice chats to the shepherds but I wouldn't put a tent up anywhere around there. Most of them want stuff and as we found out last year, some will take without asking.

Ifidi Cave could work. Also Mbundini Cave is closer to Sentinel than Fangs Cave (by about 30 to 40 minutes). Mbundini Cave is far enough down Mbundini Pass to be reasonably off the radar. But you're right, Sentinel to Fangs is a far trek, esp if you follow the escarpment which is really the point of the cross-escarpment routes. Inland in Lesotho on the short cut route from Sentinel to Fangs, one valley looks the same as the next apart from the fact that you'll be crossing over the precise turf of the bad incident in Autumn last year.

It is also noteworthy that it is not uncommon to have a bit of snow in April. I would definitely carry a -7C bag at that time of the year. Remember that if the weather turns sour, your sleeping bag could very well be the difference between your story appearing on this thread vs the Dragon's Wrath thread - it can also be the difference between a great trip you will remember forever, and a horrible trip that results in you never hiking again. A First Ascent Icebreaker, Mountain Hardwear Lamina 20 or equivalent bag should be sufficient. I would also recommend an air mattress or self inflating mattress with a decent R-Value.

Down jackets are nice, but not essential. A down jacket buys you the opportunity to stay out of your sleeping bag as things get colder, makes it less painful when you need to go out in the middle of the night, and makes it easier to get going in the morning - but I find that I rarely walk in one (I usually walk for the first 30 minutes of the day in one, then take it off because it is too hot). They also make nice pillows. If you don't take one, you are forced into your sleeping bag earlier - but it is unlikely to become a survival item. So it is technically a luxury item (well, to a fast-and-light hiker anyway). I had already been hiking for 3 years before I even got one, including a GT in late April 2012, that included snow (you can't really wear a down jacket while conditions are wet anyway). Fleece pants are the same - you probably won't be hiking in them, and you won't be sleeping in them. I own a pair of fleece pants, and have only worn them once: Kilimanjaro summit day.

Make sure you have a good warm fleece and comfortable thermal inners, though. These are essential. Try and avoid hiking in your long johns and vest, though. I make this mistake often - you get up, it is cold, so you keep them on. The vest ends up becoming your shirt for the day, but you can't really take long johns off during the day - so you hike in them, they get all wet and sweaty, and thus cold when the evening rolls around.

A good waterproof jacket is definitely a must. Waterproof pants are debatable - personally I don't bother, provided you are willing to live with a bit of discomfort if there is some rain (aside from Kilimanjaro, I last used my waterproof pants in March 2014 - and that was for dew on the grass). I find that I sweat too much in them, so fast drying pants work better for me. It is a case of personal preference. But if you use waterproof pants, they must be breathable ones.

Gloves, and a beanie or balaclava are important. Buffs are awesome - I carry 2 on every hike, irrespective of season.

You will want a good thick pair of socks as well - cold feet are no fun!

Winds can be strong in autumn, so a good pair of sunglasses can be helpful in keeping a bit of the dust out of your eyes (it feels like it isn't working until you take them off) - it also blocks some of the wind from your eyes, so they don't get as sore. And while you are at it, don't forget lip-ice - a mistake I have made so many times!

A gas stove is also a good idea at that time of the year (I know most people hike with one, but I include it here for completeness). If you are cold, a hot cup of tea/coffee/hot chocolate/soup warms you up nice and quickly. If someone has hypothermia, a hot cup is the recommended treatment in most articles I have read on the topic. It is what was given to me when I had hypothermia in 2012, and what I gave to Hobbit when he had hypotheria in 2014 - so a stove can end up as a survival item. It is also useful if rivers are low and the available water is frozen.