Everest basecamp Gokyo trip report

Sunset view from Kala Pattar (lower down)



And a bit lower (and later)



Next morning we started our descent and our return journey back to Lukla. Due to the initial bad weather and delayed flights we lost one day of our trek. Normally this route is done in 16 days, we had planned for 13 but this was now reduced to 12. This meant that we only had 3 days to get back to Lukla, with today being the longest one at close to 30km’s. The Tenzing Hillary marathon incidentally also started the same morning and we saw a number of runners go past us as we hiked down to lower altitudes. The descent and higher oxygen levels made for good progress and soon we had covered a large distance. However, as is always the case on this route, going down typically involves numerous climbing sections as well, which still saps your energy.

By 10 am we had reached the little town of Thokla and stopped for an early lunch. It was quite warm and I was glad to take off my boots to let them and my socks dry out a bit. After a high fat and carb meal (fried rice and veg) we hit the trail again. By 3:15 we got to the town of Pangbuche 3930m ASL where we stopped for a while to rest out and see if any further runners were coming through. They still had 14,5km’s to go to get to Naamche Bazaar, and there were still 7 of the original 50 athletes that needed to check through here. After some Isotonic Game and two snicker bars I felt more human again and ready for the last 4km’s or so to Debuche. We started going downhill to the river (awesome, by now I like downhill) but as soon as we got to the river we started climbing again. It was hot, I was tired and my little toe was screaming from pain (blister forming?) When will we EVER get to Debuche? Shortly after this thought the town, as if by a miracle, appeared around a bend. Boy, was I happy to drop my pack and fall down on the (again) too small bed. Today Sanet set her all time record high on her phones step counter - 60444 steps. Her previous high was 55000 on our last Drakensberg hike, and this was also a full day hike from sunrise close to sunset, which means today was really a big day.
We cleaned up (wipes) and for the first time enjoyed an on suite bathroom, I mean toilet. Little things that makes life more pleasurable. We had dinner, chatted to an interesting New Zealander who was on his way up to climb Island Peak and then hit the sack.

Walking back down



Monuments for deceased climbers



Porta Changa appears

Port Changa



Marathon checkpoint



Looking back towards Porta Changa



Periche - crow looking for food



Periche - newly rebuilt by October as it was completely destroyed in the April earthquake



Descending lower and lower

Pangboche



South of Pangboche - feet are sore!



Porters with heavy loads



Lower still, back in the rodedendron forests



No water shortage here



Debuche - rest, at last

Daybreak of day what again? I’ve completely lost track of time as each days routine is pretty much the same. What I do know is that we need to get to Monjo today, which is about 4km’s south of Namche Bazaar 13km’s away. It is still mainly downhill but today there are a couple of nasty little climbs to get over. We start fairly early and get into a nice rhythm. Last night at 8pm we saw some headlights going past our tea house – it was the last of the marathon runners. Looking at the last 6km’s to Naamche Bazaar I sort of feel sorry for them. They had to do this stretch in the dark last night and I would say this is probably the toughest stretch of the whole marathon. By now they’d be tired but in front of them (as it now lies in front of us) is a 600m steep descent down to the valley floor, over lots of loose rock strewn paths. We descend down to the river far below, and then proceed to climb up the last 300 odd meters to get onto some sort of level ground again. We eventually reach the main fork north of Naamche Bazaar where you decide to go left to Gokyo or right to Basecamp (on the up trek). 11 days ago I wondered where the right hand path goes, now I know. We get going again (shame, I think Bibek is already tired of stopping every 5 minutes for photos) and walk on the easy road to Naamche. Only problem is, it is not as easy as there are still lots of stone steps to negotiate, only going down this time. By 11am we arrive back at Naamche and go to “The Nest” again for some veg and rice, seeing that they make the best veg curry in town . After Lunch Bibek is off to an internet café to sort out our tickets for the return flight to Kathmandu. He takes forever and we eventually ask the lodge owner to inform Bibek that we are going down to Monjo so long, I’m sure he will catch up soon. Well, it took him 45 minutes to reach us. We only got to about 13 minutes South of Naamche when the tourist police at the checkpoint just before the town stops us and asks for our tourist pass. Shucks, we don’t have it, it’s with Bibek! So we wait for 45 minutes till Bibek arrives. He smiles at us – the bugger knew we wouldn’t get far, I’m sure.

On the downhill section south of Naamche Bazaar we met up with two groups of South Africans. The first tells us about what’s happening with SA in the rugby world cup (looks like we still have a chance to get somewhere), the second was an older overweight lady telling us she was @##$$%^ -off on this hill, wanting to know if it gets better further up along the path. Sadly Sanet had to tell her that this hill was just a nice warmup for what was to come. Her face said it all. Shouldn’t you expect some hills in the highest mountain range in the world? Some people…..
We get down to Monjo and here we meet up with a whole group of the marathon runners. Interesting chatting to them around dinner later that night and hearing about how they experienced the race. Their storey was basically the same as ours – that the altitude really affects your performance massively. They tell us the winning guy (a Nepalese – no surprises here) finished in just over 4 hours. That is just a super crazy time for this type of altitude and terrain. AndrewP, how about this race for your next challenge? We go to bed early, properly tired. I think the abundance of oxygen is also playing a part here.

Just before the 600m down climb before Naamche Bazaar



And you thought your backpack was heavy



Watch out for that sharp horn Bibek!



We came down there



Stone cutters



Donkeys with gas

Bovine porter train



Next morning up late (for a change – Bibek is quite happy about this arrangement) seeing that we only have to do 16km’s for the day over semi easy terrain and that it is our last day on the trail, so we want to stretch it out as long as possible. If we arrive early enough we could still take a plane out to Kathmandu, but fortunately there were no planes flying out that afternoon so we could sleep the night at Lukla. The last stretch up to Lukla was (as is typical) al stairs and cobblestones, filled with lots of people, dogs, cattle, mules and even a single cat. Did I mention I hate cobble stones? Man, they are hard on your feet, especially after 12 solid days of walking. You’d think our feet would have gotten accustomed to it but I think I’d have to do another 300km’s or so before my snow boots are eventually properly worn in. We arrive in town and go walk around one last time in all the little shops. There is a local band playing music in the street outside but it’s not quite my type so we walk past and have another look at the small airstrip we need to take off from next morning.

Before lunch I watch a movie in the dining hall, feels quite funny watching TV again. Guess things are now back to normal again. We have a glorious shower and then tuck in for the night.

Trek back up to Lukla



Anyone for a shawer



If you haven't been there, you wouldn't understand this one. When you go, ask your guide and he will happily explain



Lukla



Lukla airport



Goodbye mountains

Next day we are at the airport at 6am. By 6:45 the first plane arrives and we are the first group to board the plane. They literally stop, drop off passengers, take out the luggage (about 3 minutes) and with propellers still spinning get the new load of passengers on board and load our luggage. Max 5 minutes and we are ready for take-off. With a tailwind blowing lift is reduced and we manage to clear the runway with literally half a second of landing strip left (I counted it on the video afterwards. We manage one last glimpse of the high mountains till new peaks obscure our vision of Everest. 25 minutes later we land at Kathmandu and our adventure is over. It would have taken climbers 75 years ago a whole month to finish the return journey. Such is the age we live in.

Things they don’t tell you beforehand:
• Toilet paper is not provided. Take some white gold, it costs about $3 for 1ply
• Take two towels each – none are provided, and when wet they don’t dry out in a day
• Take some waterless shampoo and soap – none is provided
• Learn to use a squat toilet (not sure how you’ll do this, but be creative)
• Enerjellies and game is wonderful to take with you
• Take a flask – helpful when you need a cappuccino
• Chocolates are available – but mostly past expiry date
• And remember to climb some stairs before attempting this 

Really enjoyed reading this and your writing style.
The bet with the Dal bhat should have been to eat it every night for dinner... and then also make it your first dinner once back in civilisation.

Is this the route taken by Everest climbers to get to base camp? (I guess yes?)

Coeta,

Our return route is the shortest way to get to EBC, we first went to Gokyo as we wanted to see the lakes, (this is west of Everest), then we went east across Cho-la pass to join up with the norml up-route to EBC, and then we came back the normal route to EBC. Further, but the up route via Gokyo was definitely more scenic for us.

Great writeup. Looks like you had a ball.

Thanks for the great write up and photos Riaang - I really enjoyed reading about your adventures and it's making my feet itchy.....