First Ascent of pinnacle on Ncedamabutho Ridge

It is a considerable honour to have achieved a first ascent of a peak. In this day and age to open a new route on an already climbed Berg peak is certainly achievable if you are adventurous and imaginative enough - but an entirely new peak is a special privilege and an unforgettable experience that fills me with much appreciation.

The peak sits on the ridge which is known as Ncedamabutho (stretching from the Mnweni Needles through to the Rockeries, and including Mponj). Because of the proximity to Mponj, which towers 200m above it, it doesn't always immediately catch the eye, but it is nonetheless very prominent and freestanding, at an altitude of 2900m, and it is in the same league as the Bell and Sterkhorn.

There was no evidence of previous ascents of the peak:
- no references or documentation (we have only heard of one previous unsuccessful attempt)
- no tracks or cairns on the approach
- no pitons
- no tat (abseil cord)
- no summit cairn
- no summit box
- no summit junk such as old tins which historically where sometimes left on summits as proof

If anyone does know more of the history if this peak, please let us know. And, if anyone has indeed previously summitted the peak, please step forward and let us know! Currently, all indications are that our climb was the first ascent.

The naming of the peak awaits confirmation. The representative elders in the Mnweni will be consulted.

We hiked in via the Tonyelane-Ntshonalanga, and then up via one of the side valleys before Scaly Cave. This was very hard hiking. We bivvied near the crest of the ridge before and after the climb.

The details and naming of our route will also need confirmation and exact information will be posted in due course. Our route involved 6 pitches (which includes 2 short pitches on the long approach scramble). The grading is probably of F2 but awaits confirmation. The route-finding was fun and exciting! We only had some of my previous photos of the peak taken from the escarpment to go by. To our surprise it took a full day, with half an hour of daylight to spare, to climb the peak and get back down.

One of the anxieties of a new peak is not being exactly sure how you will get down. Luckily we managed to get down via one 50m abseil, some scrambling on grassy slopes, followed by a delicate down-climb of a rocky pitch probably of D grade (which is best abseiled in future), and then another 25m abseil. After reversing the grassy approach scramble, we did one short, final abseil down to the neck where our packs were. We found good blocks for the two main abseils. At first we tried to hammer in a piton to abseil off, but it didn't want to take properly and we eventually found a good block about 30m below the summit.

Loose rocks on the route were further confirmation of the lack of previous climbs. Neil led a difficult pitch with many loose rocks, and dislodged some of these on several occasions, showering down them all around Andrew and I below. On the 50m abseil, I had just touched down when I heard a loud, ripping sound. My brain at first didn't process that it was a sizable rock which had just wizzed past me - I only registered when several smaller rocks came thudding down a few meters from me. These either came from the abseil block, or the rope had flicked them off the slopes.

It was a real pleasure to climb this peak with Andrew and Neil who led the harder pitches in fine form!

The day after we climbed the Inner Mnweni Needle via the South-East Arete. Andrew walked out the following day to participate in the X-Berg race. Neil and I continued on to total 9 consecutive days in the Berg, during which we also successfully climbed Mponjwane via the Standard Route, and the Column via the Escarpment Arete Route. In total we slept 6 days in the open without a tent or cave and the weather held beautifully! Thanks to Neil and Andrew for such a fantastic trip!

Attached are some of the photos/topos we used to plan the climb - anyone care to guess where the actual route landed up being?

My guess is the yellow route

Congrats to Intrepid, Andrew P and Neil!
As Intrepid mentioned - an unclimbed peak is a rare thing in the berg.

I must also say that I admire the fact that Intrepid has consulted with the elders in the naming of the peak, there are not too many who would do the same. We wait with anticipation on that and the route name decision!

So Inner needle, the new peak, Mponj and the Column in one trip? Top notch!

Oh and my guess for the route is yellow, then onto blue.