First Ascent of pinnacle on Ncedamabutho Ridge

The ridge line linking Mponjwane to the two Mnweni Needles contains a number of subsidiary peaks. The highest one, just below Mponjwane was our objective.

Approach
The easiest way to approach this peak is to walk up the Ntonjelane River and then moving up the valley leading up to the two Mnweni Needles. After leaving the Ntonjelane valley, this would be easiest done by first walking up the arête to the true right and then contouring in to the valley as the ridge gets steeper. Take the left hand split leading up towards the subsidiary peaks. Then either bivi at the last water, or carry water and bivi on the neck between the second hump left of the Inner Mnweni Needle and the subsidiary peaks right of the objective.

From the neck scramble up the side of the subsidiary peaks going first up about 30m, then right along a grass band, then up and then left a fair distance until the way up becomes clear. Cross over the grassy shoulder and traverse across to get to the western side of the peak. After some distance you will encounter a steep sided gulley blocking your way. Scramble down about 60m passing a hole through the ridge, and the start of the first pitch is about 10m below the hole at a point where one can see a way to traverse into the gulley.

1. 25m E. Climb down a few meters and traverse right (looking up) crossing a short slab into the gully.
Scramble up the gully until there is a short steep section blocking the way. A prominent roof system lies just above and to the right.
2. 15m F1 . Climb the short section by smearing rightwards up a slab in the gully.
Walk 60m right on a grass ledge to gain a second gully. Go a few meters up this and a further 30m right to the western arête of the peak.
3. 30m F2. Climb up a shallow groove past a cave and into an obvious crack above. This pitch ends on top of a 3m high block forming a platform on the ridge. (this pitch has some loose rock)
4. 40m F2 . Climb down the block to the neck and make some balancy moves up and left around the corner. Continue up to a good stance.
40m Walk left on a grass ledge and stop below an obvious black layback crack.
5. 45m F2/F3 (16). Climb/straddle up the chimney / crack with a grassy exit, then continue up and leftwards on easier rock to the summit.

Descent
From the summit scramble down the north side to a large block. Abseil off this. A 50m abseil gets you to the neck forming the top of the second gully system, passing a large ledge about 20m down. From here scramble rightwards down the north east side to the neck between the peak and first subsidiary peak (the first gully system). Cross the neck and continue to scramble down to do a final 25m abseil off another large block to arrive at a point on the grass traverse before the first pitch. Reverse the rest of the scramble to the neck, the last section into the neck was also abseiled.
First Ascent: 27 April 2015 Andrew Porter, Neil Margetts, Chris Sommer