Rhino Peak: The East ridge

This past weekend myself and mark_mctaggart managed to climb Rhino Peak via the East Ridge route. What follows is a personal account of the climb.

This climb was done as a day outing from the Garden Castle campsite.
It took us just shy of 12 hours to make the round trip. 7am-7pm.
Campsite to base of climb was 5 hours. Base of climb to summit was 3 hours. Return from summit to base of climb was 1 hour. The rest of the hike back down to campsite took 3 hours.

The MCSA’s RD of the route and approach is easy to follow. For those who are interested, you follow the Mashai Pass path until just after the Pillar Cave annexe. There is a feint path that breaks off to the right and you start working your way up the grass slopes to a small saddle on the crest of the Rhino Ridge. Roughly halfway up there is a small exposed section past an awesome little waterfall. One should keep to the true right of this river to avoid any navigation problems.

Once on the ridgeline you swing West (Left) and follow the ridge up to the base of the climb.

The climb consists of three pitches separated by some scrambling and walking.

The RD on the MCSA website is very brief but you are climbing a ridge so it is fairly obvious which general direction to go. (Yes, I know - up!)

We were not sure of the exact line on the first pitch (25-30m D) but decided to chose a line that looked like the best climbing.
The second pitch (15m D) was a lot more obvious as the ridge had narrowed and the line stood out more.
The third pitch (8m E) involved a few moves up and across some slab before you get into any positive hand holds and then once in the crux you eventually find (with much relief) a piton as your first piece of pro. A second piton follows shortly after and then the pitch is over.

A short scramble leads to the top. (Some may like to stay roped for this)

We descended via the suggested route of heading towards the top of the S route and then traversing East which brings you to the top of the first pitch and an abseil back down.

We descended roughly the same way that we had come up and quickened our descent by bum-sliding down large sections of the steep grass slopes.

This climb, like many in the berg I suppose, is a long day hike with a little bit of climbing!

Mark’s wife Jess accompanied us to the base of the climb and has allowed me to share some of the photos she took. These are marked JM.
Pics to follow...

Mark's hand pointing to the saddle you head for as you work you way up the grass slopes.
Pic by JM


The short exposed section before the waterfall.
JM


The top of the saddle.


The view towards Rhino once you have reached the saddle.


This pic shows the three pitches as well as the route back to the top of the 1st pitch.
JM


A view from below the first pitch.


Pitch one. JM

View back down the ridge from the base of P1.


Pitch two.


The view from the top of P3.


Success! (JM)


What's a climb without a summit selfie?


The return route via the grassy traverse.


Bum-sliding back down! (JM)

ghaznavid wrote: Nicely done guys, thanks for the report and photos

Pitch one looks much shorter than the quoted 30m on the RD on the MCSA website, how high would you say the first pitch is?

Ps. seeing as the top 2 pitches are bypassable, surely this would constitute a rock pass much like Redi Pass or Injisuthi Pass? Thoughts?

Pitch one is more like 20/25m, depending on how far you go to set up a stance.

I'm not sure I'd call it a pass, although I'd possibly call it a "way up requiring rope and technical climbing ability along with a stomach for exposure and a love of unorthodox methods of reaching the Escarpment"

Hi Andrew5336

I guess what is possible is rather like that old saying about lengths of string etc. What may be impossible for some is easy for others and all that sort of thing.

I suppose that any climb is possible as a solo route. Until you fall.

I'll leave the MCSA RD here for your perusal and let you decide. (Please take note of the last paragraph)