Rhino Peak: The East ridge

04 Nov 2018 07:43 #74164 by ghaznavid



I lead pitch 1. It is quite a long pitch, about 30m. The climbing is mostly easy, but the bulges resulted in a lot of rope drag. I only managed to get 6 gear placements in, so it was very lead out. This shot here was taken from just before the crux, a fall here would have been a ground fall. Lucking a good cam goes in at the crux. The next gear after this was far up and was terrible and then 2 final pieces went in near the top of the pitch.


A lead-selfie just before the crux:



Chris topping out on pitch 1:





Chris leading pitch 2 - and yes, he knew I was taking the photo, was on stable ground and my other hand had the rope locked, so no safety issues here:


Preparing to second pitch 2:

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04 Nov 2018 07:55 #74165 by ghaznavid
We split pitch 3 into two, mostly to reduce rope drag. Naturally it had nothing to do with me rigging it so that I wouldn't have to lead the crux :lol:

Chris preparing to second the first half


The crux pitch is graded E, but I am not sure who graded it that. Chris rates its closer to 17, although the fact that it was wet didn't help. I chatted to Marco who has also climbed the route, and he rates its 15. It is hard for me to grade a slab, since that is the type of climbing I am worst at, but it felt like the hardest pitch I have ever climbed.

The pitch starts by frictioning up a slab. I broke 10 different holds on this slab - this was the only part of the route where we had issues with rock quality. I eventually decided to lie down on the rock so that my feet didn't have as much weight on them - this also gave me the reach to grab a jug (which was full of water - the irony was lost on me at the time). I pulled up on this to get to a better foothold, and soon was standing on that wet jug. Chris placed 4 pieces here, which turned out to be pretty difficult to remove, I eventually had to pull on them to get into a position to remove them. I dislodged a few of the rocks in the overhang while doing this - a good reminder why we always climb with a helmet on.

From here, you have to traverse right along a friction ledge, with iffy handholds that were just too high for me, meaning that I was very stretched out. Once across this, you have to pull through an overhang (remember that this is graded E, so about a 10) with fairly iffy hands. I was very close to falling on this, and had to do a funny balance shift mid-move to stay on, as I managed to pull out some vegetation that I had been using as a hand hold. There are 2 pitons around this overhang, Chris rates one was loose - although I didn't notice. I can't put a finger on which move is the crux - but this entire sequence is very difficult, and is above a massive drop off - although I didn't even notice it because I was struggling so much with the traverse!

Chris successfully through the crux - and no, my camera has not been rotated to give a dramatic angle, it is genuinely very steep


Walking off above the climb:


Summit selfie:



Walking back down Mashai Pass


We got back to the car just after 5:30, and I was back at home before 9. Perfect weather, an incident free climb and successfully completing what we set out to do - what a great way to spend a Saturday!

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The following user(s) said Thank You: Stijn, tonymarshall, Dave, WarrenM

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