Sentinel Standard Route

16 May 2013 17:20 - 21 Aug 2019 16:30 #56938 by ghaznavid

Replied by ghaznavid on topic Re:Sentinel Standard Route

Some questions on the route, assistance would be greatly appreciated :thumbsup:

- How experienced in lead climbing should one be before leading this route? Would leading up to grade 12 on trad be adequate to compensate for the difficulty added by the Berg rock etc?
- Is there a path to the start and up the stretch between the 2 pitches?
- Does anyone have a GPS track by any chance?
- Any specific pro needed for the route (e.g. micro stoppers)? I have Black Diamond Nuts 3-13 and Black Diamond Hexes size 6-10

Last edit: 21 Aug 2019 16:30 by ghaznavid.

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16 May 2013 22:10 - 17 May 2013 08:02 #56942 by tiska

Replied by tiska on topic Sentinel Standard Route

Sentinel standard is a good beginners route. Pitch 1 is about D grade and some 12-15m long. I don't remember getting much gear out but it is certainly not exposed or too scary.

The top pitch, which is at the top rock band after walking diagnoannly up the grassy, bushy slopes is grade C. Its a bit more exposed than the bottom pitch but easy enough. Remember this route was opened more than 100 years ago.

There is a nice chimney variation to the top pitch (McLeod's variation) which is nicer climbing than either of the 2 pitches on the standard route. If it is dry, then I would have thought it is hard to fall off any of these pitches.

Last edit: 17 May 2013 08:02 by tiska.

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17 May 2013 05:23 #56944 by ghaznavid

Replied by ghaznavid on topic Sentinel Standard Route

Thanks for the info :thumbsup:

How well protected is that chimney vs the normal scramble?

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17 May 2013 08:05 - 17 May 2013 09:06 #56948 by tiska

Replied by tiska on topic Sentinel Standard Route

McLeod's variation (the chimney alternative to the exposed summit C scramble) is more conventional climbing than either of the other 2 pitches on the standard route. Its a chimney that you tuck into and use stem moves off each wall to get up. It feels secure and the rock quality is OK. To be honest we went up without ropes on that pitch so were not looking for gear but I'm sure you can get stuff out if you want. The C scramble on the standard route is over before you realise you've done it. That's what happened to us, so we went down and did McLeod's variation as well.

Maybe do the standard route and then put a top rope down McLeod's?

Last edit: 17 May 2013 09:06 by tiska.

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17 May 2013 11:11 #56951 by ghaznavid

Replied by ghaznavid on topic Sentinel Standard Route

Did some stem move practice on a door frame at home, its harder than it looks :laugh:

Although I hope the rock isn't as smooth and unfeatured as a door frame...

Thanks for the advice. If the route is only 1 hour from path to summit, then I can look at doing both in a day. Although I'll probably spend an hour leaning on the cairn eating lunch and enjoying the view - my favourite thing to do in the Berg...

I'm considering doing it this winter, but I am worried about how snow/ice would make the route tough/dangerous.

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17 May 2013 13:16 - 17 May 2013 13:20 #56955 by intrepid

Replied by intrepid on topic Sentinel Standard Route

If you have massive cams and hexes you can place plenty deep in the crack that the chimney narrows into on McLeods Variation...but these isn't really practical, I certainly didn’t have much that went in initially. I vaguely remember about 4, maybe 5 placements. The first placement was close to the bottom - a BD #1 cam. You'd probably still hit the ground but it would spare you the inconvenience of rolling down the grass slope (with broken ankles). Thereafter I think I got a nut in behind a flake - not very solid...this was well into the stemming bit already. The only placement that I remember feeling really good was the long cord I slung around the big chockstone at the top, but by this time the climb is almost done. It's not a scary chimney though...pretty fun. There is a grass-piton type peg among the rocks about 2m or so from the top of the pitch to build a stance with, but use at least one other anchor too.

There is a GPS data file available in the downloads section.

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

Last edit: 17 May 2013 13:20 by intrepid. Reason: typo

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17 May 2013 14:08 #56957 by ghaznavid

Replied by ghaznavid on topic Sentinel Standard Route

Ok - so my massive hex will get to meet with some basalt. Awesome

When I said I wanted gear for the Berg I was told that sizes 8-10 are imperative up there...

The BD massive hexes are surprisingly light, my 13 nut is roughly the same weight as my 8 hex (the biggest side of the nut and the smallest side of the hex are about the same size).

So a large sling too, noted.

I'll go and download the track :thumbsup:

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21 May 2013 09:44 - 21 May 2013 09:46 #56989 by intrepid

Replied by intrepid on topic Sentinel Standard Route

This is a rough topo I made a while back, the X's indicating the pitches. At the top is the Standard Route on the left and McLeod's on the right. The blue indicates the route not visible.

It was originally uploaded to the galleries here .

Have a look at the climbing galleries as there are several pics of Sentinel in there. In particular a good shot of McLeod's Variation taken by the late Jon Hone at this link .

GPS data of Standard Route and Mcleods here .

Take nothing but litter, leave nothing but a cleaner Drakensberg.

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Last edit: 21 May 2013 09:46 by intrepid. Reason: typo

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21 May 2013 09:59 - 21 Aug 2019 16:31 #56990 by ghaznavid

Replied by ghaznavid on topic Sentinel Standard Route

Thanks, I have seen that topo so many times, but haven't looked at it since I took up climbing (ironic, isn't it).

That top pitch on McLeod looks pretty short. I see a photo of the standard route top pitch being abseiled, also looks very short. I doubt I will hit McLeod's variation, and definitely not on my first climb of the peak - its odd how I have done Roland's Cave and many other [nowhere near as] exposed spots in the Berg, and yet as soon as I have a rope attached I become much more nervous (after taking about an hour to lead a 10m high grade 9 route at Monteseel on trad, going back on Saturday to lead a grade 12 fairly well protected 15m high route).

Last edit: 21 Aug 2019 16:31 by ghaznavid.

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