Katana Pass

06 Sep 2016 10:03 #69704 by AndrewP
Katana Pass was created by AndrewP
Katana Pass might be a better name. But, it seems the locals coming up the Jarateng Valley beat us to it. And the Jarateng means more to me due to all my attempts at the speed GT.

Roughly speaking, the route follows the obvious and large valley just south of the 3 Jarding Passes. I have seen thus valley referred to as False South Jarding before. It is a fairly broad valley, and goes up at a steady and pleasantly gentle (all things considered) angle.


It hits an insurmountable cliff right at the top. Here, traverse southwards underneath the summit of Katana to the main ridge.


Drop down about 10m on the other side and traverse further around Katana until you get to the lowest point of the saddle above. A few short and easy scrambles on angled rock slabs take you to the top. The presence of a path for parts of the route suggests it has been used by locals. That is the conventional route. I observed the top part of the route a few months ago.


When I actually reached the south facing slopes they were covered in thick ice. Too much to do without proper ice climbing gear. I really did not want to go back down so close to the top. So, I applied a liberal dose of 'do not look down' and instead made an ascent of what could be termed Katana Frontal Ridge.



The route does of course need a clean ascent once the snow is gone. Ghaz?

Please login or register to view the images attached to this post.

The following user(s) said Thank You: Serious tribe, ghaznavid, tonymarshall

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
06 Sep 2016 11:42 #69705 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Katana Pass

AndrewP wrote: The route does of course need a clean ascent once the snow is gone. Ghaz?

Katana Pass has been on my projects list for ages, not that exact line, but the same top. With a great degree of protest and objection, I'm sure I can drag Hobbit up yet another unmarked route at Giants Castle!

After getting nowhere near Giants Castle on the 4th attempt this last weekend (admittedly 3 of the plans were particularly ridiculous), we are planning on day-hiking up it at the end of the month - about time Hobbit completes the khulu challenge. He only has about 12 years left if he wants the youngest record...

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
07 Sep 2016 08:28 #69709 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Katana Pass
Ps. the results of my previous research on Katana Pass.

The line I eyed out was basically the ridge just south of the main gully south of Katana - not 100% sure it goes, but one can often find a way through, maybe a bit of scrambling is required.


The top section of the pass. Doesn't look amazingly passable, but neither did Bond Pass - and now that Andrew has done it, we know it goes.


The ledge Andrew traversed on north of Katana:


For the record, my other Giants Castle projects (anyone is welcome to steal any of them from me)
- Auditor Pass: lots of recce work still required, this is the gully between Popple Peak and Judge Pass
- Popple Pass: go a bit further north than the gully for Gypaetus Pass, follow a large grassy spur to immediately north of Gypaetus Point. There will probably be some exposed scrambling right at the top. It can also be approached from Gypaetus Pass, but turn right instead of left at Abyss Point.
- Thumb Traverse: where the trail up Bannerman Ridge starts turning north, follow the top of the ridge of Thumb. Zig-zag south to avoid 2 major cliff lines and climb to right below the cliffs on The Thumb (south side). Traverse to the summit gully of Thumb Pass.
- Thumb Pass South Route: take one gully north of North Hlubi Pass, and use this to reach the summit gully of Thumb Pass from the south side
- Long Wall Pass: unlikely zig-zag route that tops out just north of Long Wall
- Giants Pass north variation: take the gully near Giants Cave and use this instead of the normal route up Giants Pass
- Giants Northern Gully: I know this route has been done before, but take the rocky gully between Giants Pass Peak and Giants Castle Peak. Looks hairy!

Please login or register to view the images attached to this post.

The following user(s) said Thank You: AndrewP, Biomech

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
14 Sep 2017 18:58 #72135 by AndrewP
Replied by AndrewP on topic Katana Pass
For the record, I have done Katana Pass a second time. This time around, there was no snow about, so I followed the vague path all the way along the traverse and to the top.

There is a cave at 2805m on the true right hand side which could sleep several people. It was dry in winter, but could be wet in summer.
The following user(s) said Thank You: ghaznavid, tonymarshall, Dave

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
15 Sep 2017 08:07 #72139 by tonymarshall
Replied by tonymarshall on topic Katana Pass
On the first weekend of September, I did a solo ascent of Katana Pass, although AndrewP and I were together, he went up Elandshoek Pass, and we met up that afternoon near Long Wall.

Amazingly, I found quite a distinct path from the cave to the top of the pass, and evidence of a vague path at several spots lower down, so the locals are using this one.

More detailed write up to follow.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
15 Sep 2017 08:20 #72142 by ghaznavid
Replied by ghaznavid on topic Katana Pass
I need to bag this one still, I have fallen behind at Giants recently - I used to have all the passes, but the list keeps growing :lol:

I only have 3 projects that have remained untouched there (well, someone might have already done them, but I am not aware of any record of this), I wonder if I can beat you guys to completing them...

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
Powered by Kunena Forum